Remote Central Locking conversion.

[Pinner-man]

Hi

The unit arrived this morning, the instruction showed wiring diagrams for various versions of the existing set up of the cars system.

I think the description that matches my car situation is:
If the car is originally equipped with a central locking system and the driver's door has been installed with electric motor.

There are two diagrams one showing a positive trigger wiring diagram the other with a negative trigger diagram.

If I knew how to add diagrams to a post I could attach the page showing the various so we could be absolutely sure.

Regards

[Cliff]

That description sounds ok but better if we can confirm. Here's a guide on how to post a pic to a thread: viewtopic.php?t=51326

Give it a try and shout if you have a problem.

[Pinner-man]

Hi

I hope you can read the attached wiring Diagram. The original was very small, about a quarter of A$ size. I enlarged it and then produced a pdf file. The result is an A$ sized document but the print and diagrams are very clear. As I said Option 1 seems the correct one but I do not understand the descriptions of 2 or 3. It is definitely not Option 4., perhaps you could confirm the correct diagram.

Scan cen lock dg.pdf

(1.59 MiB) Downloaded 1049 times

[Cliff]

Hi - can read it. It's actually none of the descriptions since they all show +12v to switch either lock or unlock or both. In the Calibra/Cavalier, it's negative/0v/ground that is used to switch. The best thing is for you to refer to the first diagram, top left. The common wires marked COM should be earthed - they can be connected to the same earth you use to feed the remote central locking unit. Then the NO (normally open) terminals should be wired to the lock/unlock signal wires on the car. Does that make sense?

[Pinner-man]

Hi

I am disappointed that the unit is not really suitable for a Caibra, the Ebay description clearly states that it is suitable for a Calibra. I think I understand your suggestion on how the unit can be wired to suit a Calibra. However at the moment I am concerned about a more basic issue - Identifying the locking and unlocking cables. In an earlier post a comment was made that they run along the bottom of the drivers door, it was just necessary to identify which was which. As it was decided to mount the unit in the drivers footwell I was hoping I would not have to remove the door card. How did you identify these cables. I have a Haynes manual, the central locking system is shown between lines 700 to 720 but to be honest I cannot identify the cables from the diagram.

Regards - thanks for all your help.

[Cliff]

Hi!

Don't be too disappointed - it's still suitable it's just that the wiring scenarios don't match exactly. If it makes you feel any better then my locking unit came with a small piece of paper 4"*5" that had no scenarios on it, only the COM, NC, NO etc

Anyway, let's get on with finding the wires. If you look back a bit earlier in this topic, assuming you're driving a UK model then behind the drivers footwell kick panel you'll find the central locking ECU. There's an example pic of one from the Haynes manual posted here. Once you find that, look at the plug going into it - all the wires you need are there.

You will need to verify them to be 100% sure they're corrected but a mostly brown wire with a red stripe (BRRT in Haynes diagram) is the lock cable. Then depending on the year model, a mostly brown wire with a white (BRWS) is unlock.

Once you locate these wires on that plug, it's good practice to test they are what they should be - see my earlier instructions on that - the reason for checking is that especially on older cars, even though the wiring looms should be correct - you just never know. As a recap, they should be momentarily earthed when you lock/unlock the car.

Also at the plug you will find the earth - brown (BR) and 12v - black (SW) that you're going to need to power your unit.

Does that help?

[Pinner-man]

Hi

With Sunday fast approaching I think I will go ahead and remove the footwell panel and see what I find, your descriptions have been very helpful, I will do my best to find the correct wires by following your advice. If I get time on Saturday I will power up the receiver and see if I can get it to work before I install it in the car. As I am sure you know one job that needs to be done is for code from the sender to be leant by the receiver, it might be better if that was done before the unit was installed in the car. One thing I have not mentioned so far is that an LED indicator is supplied as part of the kit. I assume it is intended to be installed somewhere on the dash. Did your kit include an LED, if so where about on the dash did you install it. My only experience of dashboard wiring on my SE1 was fitting a new Radio/ CD player and replacing the ashtray 12V plug, there is not a lot of room so routing a new cable up to the dash sounds as if could be difficult.

Regards

[Cliff]

Hi - no LED in my kit I'm afraid, do you know what it's supposed to indicate? You could always see how useful you think it's going to be before installing it but if it looks to be useful it shouldn't be too bad to route up to a location to the right of the steering wheel for example.

[Pinner-man]

Hi

Slow progress I am afraid, the good god news is that the kick panel came off easily but have not started the installation yet.

Regards

[Cliff]

Take your time, no rush - i'm here when you get further if you get stuck.

[Pinner-man]

Hi

See attached picture of view behind the kick panel. I am a little concerned that it does not match the picture you posted, the one taken from the Haynes manual. Does it match the layout on your Calibra, do you know the function of the purple coloured unit on the left hand side of the picture. Is there any doubt that the white unit is the central locking control unit. If I take the connector off the white unit and the central locking stops working, I guess that would confirm it is the central locking control unit.

Regards

[Cliff]

Hi - that's definitely it - there's at least two models of locking ECU - they are wired the same though and serve the same function - just different manufacturer.
The wires you're looking for are connected to that plug that is plugged in the bottom of the Whiteish grey unit on the right. Ignore the other connectors.

[Pinner-man]

Hi

Thanks for the confirmation about the unit. I have been studying the Haynes manual wiring diagram. A couple of points

The +12v supply power to the locking ECU K37 is shown as a RED cable connecting to PIN 9. The 0v or earth terminal is Pin 11 Brown wire. Does that match your wiring.

There are comments next to the unit on the diagram- ZU/CLOSED and AUF/OPEN. Do these comments refer to the locking and unlocking function we have been discussing. It would appear that the ECU pins associated with the these functions are 7 & 8. The colours are

Pin 7 - SWGE - BLACK/ YELLOW
Pin 8 - SWRT - BLACK/RED

Is my understanding of the ZU/CLOSED and AUF/OPEN correct.

I assume you have a Haynes manual but if not I can send you a copy of the relevant section of the wiring diagram.

Regards

[Cliff]

Hi - I made a mistake on the 12v, I'd identified the switched live not the perm live so your pin 9 - red wire is correct for +12v as is the brown wire to pin 11 for 0v. The switch wires aren't the right ones however - look for the colours I cited above - if you notice in Haynes they are connected to the microswitches in the motor units where as the ones you identified are connected directly to the motor. A 0v pulse to the BRWS should unlock the car, and a 0v pulse to the BRRT should lock the car. Locate the wires on the ECU plug, use the sharp tip of you mmeter probe to pierce the insulation and make contact with the wire, with the meter set to ohms or continuity tap the other end against a known earth point then lock/unlock the car using the door card button as you would normally. You should see it pulse as you flip from lock to unlock and vice Versa. If you're not sure you've found the right wire then start with the meter on DC voltage and check there's not a 12v signal there.

[Pinner-man]

Hi

As usual, slow progress but I have inserted separate chocolate block type connectors in the +12 and 0V wires so that I can just insert the power supply cables from the control unit. I must say it was not easy as there was not much spare cable leading to the control unit plug. However I am please to say the central locking function still works.

Regards