Fookin car!!
Fookin car!!
ok now i am at a complete fukn loss!! this car is gona be the end of me i tell ya. some of you may remember i sent it in for a tech 1 earlier in the month because the ecu light was on but only ever showed code 12 when i papercliped it.
they came back with 2 faults. Air mass meter & coolant temp sensor.
fair enough, went off, ordered new ones.
arrived yesterday and i changed the AFM, started up car and everything was perfect, idling grand, revving was spot on, no flat spot and no ecu light. so turned everything off and went to change the cts. noticed the wires had been kinda pulled away so guessed that was where the problem lay. pulled them off anyhow. needed to pull the car forward so did and the ecu light came back so just thought it was cos i had pulled the cables out.
today,refitted new spade connectors at dinner time, then fitted the new cts.
filled with as much coolant as i cud then started her up but the fukn light is back on all the time.
irratic idle is back so had to adjust the throttle cable to stop it dropping below 1000 revs.
brought her for a spin, seems fine going through the gears and all, no flat spotting to be honest. but had to bring her home cos the coolant light came on. filled her up another bit and had to leave it to come back to work.
if the cts was causing the problems would it need to hav a proper level of coolant to work correctly?
has anyone had this same problems?
ive a funny feeling if i go to the opel garage again they are gona just say its the ecu but why wud the ecu just clap out like that all of a sudden.
really hoping someone can give a few suggestions and help me out.
they came back with 2 faults. Air mass meter & coolant temp sensor.
fair enough, went off, ordered new ones.
arrived yesterday and i changed the AFM, started up car and everything was perfect, idling grand, revving was spot on, no flat spot and no ecu light. so turned everything off and went to change the cts. noticed the wires had been kinda pulled away so guessed that was where the problem lay. pulled them off anyhow. needed to pull the car forward so did and the ecu light came back so just thought it was cos i had pulled the cables out.
today,refitted new spade connectors at dinner time, then fitted the new cts.
filled with as much coolant as i cud then started her up but the fukn light is back on all the time.
irratic idle is back so had to adjust the throttle cable to stop it dropping below 1000 revs.
brought her for a spin, seems fine going through the gears and all, no flat spotting to be honest. but had to bring her home cos the coolant light came on. filled her up another bit and had to leave it to come back to work.
if the cts was causing the problems would it need to hav a proper level of coolant to work correctly?
has anyone had this same problems?
ive a funny feeling if i go to the opel garage again they are gona just say its the ecu but why wud the ecu just clap out like that all of a sudden.
really hoping someone can give a few suggestions and help me out.
-
johnny_adidas
disconnect battery for 1 hour when you can
when you remove the ground wire get into the car, turn on ignition (it wont turn on but put the key to that position) and press the brake pedal
replace lead after an hour making sure you have insulated those wires you speak of and make sure everything is connected before you do so
....we will go from there
when you remove the ground wire get into the car, turn on ignition (it wont turn on but put the key to that position) and press the brake pedal
replace lead after an hour making sure you have insulated those wires you speak of and make sure everything is connected before you do so
....we will go from there
-
T.F.S.
thanks TFS. sorry dont know ur name. the battery was disconnected overnight until i had the cts refitted and the wires connected. then reconnected neg. will try as u suggest about the brake pedal though. might even run over now and it shud be long enough by time i finish work at half 5
-
johnny_adidas
ok.
afm connected. idle irractic to point where it drops to bout 700rpm n nearly cuts out.
afm disconnected. idles fine. around 900rpm
if the afm is new, would air flow be the problem? should i try disconnecting the air box and letting the engine run?
battery now also disconnected as suggested
afm connected. idle irractic to point where it drops to bout 700rpm n nearly cuts out.
afm disconnected. idles fine. around 900rpm
if the afm is new, would air flow be the problem? should i try disconnecting the air box and letting the engine run?
battery now also disconnected as suggested
-
johnny_adidas
nope i dont think there is any leak between those two. checked that whole black hose last week. then checked the join between the afm and power cap. only thing that may be is powercap gasket but ive got that as tight as i cud get it back down when i cleaned throttle body a month ago.
inlet manifold gasket?
inlet manifold gasket?
-
johnny_adidas
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 18 guests