Handbrake cable mount RIPPING away from floor!!!
Help, I need a good welder in the Reading area. Got under the car yesterday to fix the rubbish handbrake only to find that the mount the cable sits in has ripped out. It is peeling back the car floor like the lid of a can of beans!!! Need to get this sorted as soon as poss. Anyone know and trust someone or could do it themselves for a good price?
Thanks, Rich
Thanks, Rich
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RichM
Sorry I cannot suggest much for this mate... but while trying not to state the obvious, make sure you leave it parked in gear. Some people overlook this. Will pull you out of the scrape if the handbreak goes.
Good luck with it. Just get it to your local industrial site based car place etc etc (you know the sort). A simple weld probably will not cost that much. I had 5 holes welded in the floor of my Orion a few years back for 100 quid. Not really that bad. This should be quite minimal I would have thought
.
Good luck with it. Just get it to your local industrial site based car place etc etc (you know the sort). A simple weld probably will not cost that much. I had 5 holes welded in the floor of my Orion a few years back for 100 quid. Not really that bad. This should be quite minimal I would have thought
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Maverick
Rich this happened on mine and a mate sorted it for me only takes about half hour.
All that needs doing is welding back onto the car (might need a backplate) however all we did was hoist the car up and take the back seat bit out (where your arse goes) - then pull the carpet up and whilst someone welds the plate back on i was using the air gun to stop all the flames from setting the carpet alight.
PM me if you need more details mate its very easy to get back on if you know a welder - but you need the car up on a lift to.
Rich take it into a garage that welds and explain what i said above they won't charge you much as its a real easy job as long as you take the seat of and peel the carpet back.
rob
All that needs doing is welding back onto the car (might need a backplate) however all we did was hoist the car up and take the back seat bit out (where your arse goes) - then pull the carpet up and whilst someone welds the plate back on i was using the air gun to stop all the flames from setting the carpet alight.
PM me if you need more details mate its very easy to get back on if you know a welder - but you need the car up on a lift to.
Rich take it into a garage that welds and explain what i said above they won't charge you much as its a real easy job as long as you take the seat of and peel the carpet back.
rob
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Robert_Dale
Bias Valve ????
Ditto.
Car failed earlyer on in the year on the very same problem.
Just took back seat out and pulled carpet up to stop it catching fire and put 2 welding spots on it to secure.
Hey presto it passed.
Car failed earlyer on in the year on the very same problem.
Just took back seat out and pulled carpet up to stop it catching fire and put 2 welding spots on it to secure.
Hey presto it passed.
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AndiSe5
Eek, just read this, my handbrake suddenly went 'PING' on friday morning when I came to leave my house to go and run around doing wedding preparations for my mates big day on the saturday. It still holds the car, but now the handle comes MUCH further up before it stops on the last click or two. I suspect it's the cable, but don't know for sure and I can't really get under the car to look, nor do I know where to look!
Is it a hard job to change the cable etc? Just wondering how much I should expect to be charged by a 'normal' backstreet garage if it needs replacing.
Am I right in thinking that the handbrake acts on two points? Just it 'feels' like one side of the car is braked and the other isnt when I parked up last night at home.
Obviously I'm leaving it in gear whereever I park at the moment!
Is it a hard job to change the cable etc? Just wondering how much I should expect to be charged by a 'normal' backstreet garage if it needs replacing.
Am I right in thinking that the handbrake acts on two points? Just it 'feels' like one side of the car is braked and the other isnt when I parked up last night at home.
Obviously I'm leaving it in gear whereever I park at the moment!
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Leigh
I got a replacement cable from Autovaux for £20 inc P&P (not a GM one for a change, unsual for Autovaux).
I'd really quite like to change it myself, not so much from a money point of view (but hey, saving £20 - £30 (local garage near my work guess-quoted me that, tho he said "we have to dismantle the brakes to fit it" ?? )
It doesn't look/sound too complicated based on what the Haynes manual says, but I'd trust more the experiences of someone on here who's actually done it before, as I'm sure most of us have at one time found things less simple than the Haynes makes it sound!
One of my long standing queries is exactly where are the safe places to put axle stands, and the location of the rear central jacking point (not the side points with the 'raised' circles. People have tried to describe it in the past, but I don't always know the specific chassis area by name (pictures needed!).
The cable change sounds/looks fairly easy, I mean they 'just' hook on at the hub end, route the cable, attach the new yoke etc , anyone know if you have to get a new selflocking bolt like it says in the Haynes, and if so, whats the part number?
Is adjusting it fairly simple too, assuming the above jacking issues were covered, sounds (again) reasonably easy to follow, turn the adjuster on the hub etc etc.
I'd really quite like to change it myself, not so much from a money point of view (but hey, saving £20 - £30 (local garage near my work guess-quoted me that, tho he said "we have to dismantle the brakes to fit it" ?? )
It doesn't look/sound too complicated based on what the Haynes manual says, but I'd trust more the experiences of someone on here who's actually done it before, as I'm sure most of us have at one time found things less simple than the Haynes makes it sound!
One of my long standing queries is exactly where are the safe places to put axle stands, and the location of the rear central jacking point (not the side points with the 'raised' circles. People have tried to describe it in the past, but I don't always know the specific chassis area by name (pictures needed!).
The cable change sounds/looks fairly easy, I mean they 'just' hook on at the hub end, route the cable, attach the new yoke etc , anyone know if you have to get a new selflocking bolt like it says in the Haynes, and if so, whats the part number?
Is adjusting it fairly simple too, assuming the above jacking issues were covered, sounds (again) reasonably easy to follow, turn the adjuster on the hub etc etc.
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Leigh
Bloody hell, my Cally just failed on that same thing!
Had to get new brake hoses as well.
Oh and standard 8V hoses dont fit the SE5, cus SE5s have got
uprated brakes! so cost me £50 instead of £15
Last years MOT failed on suspension mounts, then gearbox mounts,
so next it should be the engine mounts [img]/biggrin.gif[/img]
Viv
Had to get new brake hoses as well.
Oh and standard 8V hoses dont fit the SE5, cus SE5s have got
uprated brakes! so cost me £50 instead of £15
Last years MOT failed on suspension mounts, then gearbox mounts,
so next it should be the engine mounts [img]/biggrin.gif[/img]
Viv
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VivSE5
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