too much petrol and high revs help
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too much petrol and high revs help
just got my car back frm the garage and they cant help? its started to rev up and past 3000 revs on its own every few seconds then if throttle put in itl cut out, its using massive amounts of petrol but they tell me the engines not wired up so they cant pinpoint it, can anyone help, could it be choke, or lambada or timing belt cos they suggested all 3 but think they just want as much cash as poss, its a 2li, hope u can help? thanks
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kittycar
cts = Coolant Temperature Sensor
Timing belt nope, wont be that
Choke is controlled by the ECU which gets its info from the sensors
Lamda sensor if at fault would make it run like a bag of nails but not cut out like you mention
Rusty_CallyT's mention of the fuel return valve could be right but I have not had that so cant say yes or no on it
Are there any ECU error codes ? My First thought was the good old Idle speed control valve at fault or the air flow meter also
E
Timing belt nope, wont be that
Choke is controlled by the ECU which gets its info from the sensors
Lamda sensor if at fault would make it run like a bag of nails but not cut out like you mention
Rusty_CallyT's mention of the fuel return valve could be right but I have not had that so cant say yes or no on it
Are there any ECU error codes ? My First thought was the good old Idle speed control valve at fault or the air flow meter also
E
P Reg V6 In Titanium Pearl thats going to be stripped for parts now after being let down on it being bought whole 
Now in a Crono yellow 2010 Seat Leon Cupra R with all the toys

Now in a Crono yellow 2010 Seat Leon Cupra R with all the toys
i have a solution for cars that do this, have fixed a few now that no-one else could fix
there are two ways...adjust the screw on the pedal to increase rpm to 1001 rpm, the revs will now not fluctuate, the other way is to fit a small radiator valve from B+Q to the top hat after the ICV, you then close the valve a bit and the ICV is powerless to adjust the idle beyond 1001rpm
you can say thats not fixing the problem but its a hall of a lot beter than cutting out all the time and revving up in traffic
there are two ways...adjust the screw on the pedal to increase rpm to 1001 rpm, the revs will now not fluctuate, the other way is to fit a small radiator valve from B+Q to the top hat after the ICV, you then close the valve a bit and the ICV is powerless to adjust the idle beyond 1001rpm
you can say thats not fixing the problem but its a hall of a lot beter than cutting out all the time and revving up in traffic
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T.F.S.
thanks for the help, we replaced the air flow meter and the idle tickover valve, it seems to bee running okay but still really strong smel of petrol and dont know yet if its using any less fuel. it was on the computer at the garage but they said they couldnt test for fualts as its not wired properly.......
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kittycar
The smell of petrol and the amount it's using sounds simarlar to a problem I recently had.
I had a leak on my downpipe before my Lamda sensor so it meant that my car was overfueling and using loads of petrol.
Also because of the hole I could smell petrol when I had the windows were open.
Maybe worth getting a local quick fit to stick it on a ramp for you, they'll tell you if it's blowing for free!
I had a leak on my downpipe before my Lamda sensor so it meant that my car was overfueling and using loads of petrol.
Also because of the hole I could smell petrol when I had the windows were open.
Maybe worth getting a local quick fit to stick it on a ramp for you, they'll tell you if it's blowing for free!
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noelboy
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