koni ssk

[Molecule]

will soon have a koni suspension kit fitted, the ssk, is there anything else I might want to replace while i am at it? Also considering doing the job myself, how difficult is it? what precaution should I take?
Thanks

[AndiSe5]

I would recomend replacing the ARB linqs.
The only problems you might come across will be at the front. Removing the track rod ends from the strut and removing the shock insert as the large top nut can be very very tight.

[dj_smurph]

i was looking at changing the suspension, read the haynes manual looked at the torque settings the size of the nut and thought i will leave it to the professionals, cost me £200 including tracking

[roachy8734]

to be honest, suspension isn't that difficult, just follow a haynes manual. £200 is ridiculous, give it a go yourself.

[dj_smurph]

i could do it myself apart from the top nut on the strut. plus if things went belly up i had some comeback

[Welsh_Andy]

or just get someone to do fronts as these are the more difficult and time consuming. and do the easy rears yourself:cool:

[icewizard]

I got a 32 inch stilson wrench form machine mart for about £20, makes undoing that top nut a peice of cake.

[Molecule]

Decided I will it a go. I will go to my local scrapyard that has a calibra and I will dimantle the shocks to see what sort of problems I come across. Then I will do mine, knowing what to expect. Thanks for the help.

[RobbieV]

I lowered my cally by 40mm and did it myself, Fraz posted up instructions which were very handy at the time, here they are -

tools needed

18 mm spanner
16 mm spanner
30 mm socket
13 mm spanner or socket
long breaker bar
LARGE hammer
long strong pole about a meter or slightly longer
10 mm Allen key
24 mm socket or swan neck spanner (also may need torx bit or whatever for top of strut centre)
large pozie drive screwdriver of better still a impact screwdriver
pair of pliers
mole grips
wire brush
large pair of stilton's
axle stands
good quality spring compressors
suitable jack
chocks for wheels
large vice or workmate bench
torque wrench

also handy is a pal to help out and make tea



first thing I do is slacken the top strut tops, with the weight of the car on it is usually easier to undo the nut...use your spanner or socket and do a short sharp jerk motion to slacken the nut ( I usually apply pressure then a gently tap with hammer ) if it don't slacken off, have a look and see what method they use in the centre of the strut top..could be a torx,spine or even a small flat edge

you will need a swan neck spanner for this ...hold centre of strut and use spanner to slacken the nut..hopefully it works if not you will need to use mole grips to hold the bit in the middle of the strut and slacken the nut that way ( not recommend by strut manufactures but always done in a garage)

now the strut tops are slack...slacken wheel bolts and jack up car ..position axle stands (do not put on the bottom arms though)

this is where a pal comes in handy .... remove the split pin on the end of drive shaft, get friend to apply footbrake ..use 30 mm socket and breaker bar to remove the drive shaft nut.

now remove the calliper . you will find two small metal caps at rear of the calliper (might not be there though) prise these off with screwdriver ...use 10 mm Allen key (gently tap home with hammer as well) and remove the two bolts from calliper ...tie calliper up out the way somewhere ...remove the screw holding disc to hub..again these might have been broken before so may not be there ...I use impact screwdriver for these ...but if you don't have one give the end a good few healthy taps with a hammer first ..use screwdriver and if your lucky it will come undone..if not ....drill it out or borrow/buy a impact screwdriver ...once that is undone remove the disc from hub ..if it is reluctant to come off apply a few good hits with a hammer to the centre part of the disc where the wheel nuts go DO NOT HIT THE DISC BRAKING AREA or you will be needing new discs

now the fun part ...removing the track rod ends ..IIRC these are 16 mm nuts (may be wrong could be 17 mm or 15 mm..been a while)

clean the threads with wire brush and apply plus gas or WD40 and have a cup of tea ...if your lucky they will slacken off...if not what I do is use the pole and wedge it so I can apply pressure to the top of the track rod end ..bit fiddly but you will manage it ...(again pal comes in handy here) applying pressure and try and slacken the nut off..if it goes tight and start to spin tighten it up again and clean the threads and more WD40 and then try to slacken it a bit more...keep doing this and it should come right off.....to remove the track rod end from the hub/strut joint , these are a taper fit ...only way have done it is with a hammer ..DO NOT HIT THE THREAD AREA THOUGH or you will need a new track rod end and they are even worse to try and remove ....

turn steering as far as you can put the nut back on few threads and hit the side of the bit where the track rod end goes through , don't be shy as they need a few GOOD hits ...it should just then pop out ..remove the nut and then the track rod end from strut/hub joint.

now the bottom arm..under the CV joint is the nut holding the arm to the hub on mine it was an 18 mm and has a clip going through the nut and end of the ball joint .remove the split pin or clip ..might not budge and end up snapping..in which case once its off you can drill it out or find a nylock nut to use instead for when it goes back together.

once the nut is off or at least slackened (it may not go all the way off and hit the cv joint) ...you can use a ball joint remover..problem with the fork type is these tend to rip the rubber seals around ball joint and the pivot type are not much use as you cant get in with them.you could try applying loads of grease to the rubber seal and use fork type ..might work and not rip the seal or

get the pole wedge it under the car so you can apply pressure to the bottom arm close to the ball joint..get your pal (see you will need one at least) and get him/her to stand on the end of the pole...give the bit where the ball joint goes through a good few hits with hammer (same idea as track rod end) and hopefully it will pop out ..once it has you should now get the nut fully off, leaver the arm down..and remove the drive shaft from the hub ..now undo the top 13 mm nuts and you will be able to remove the complete strut from the car

you now have to compress the spring ..if your anyway unsure about this I suggest you now take the strut and new shocks to a garage and pay them the money to change them for you

use spring compressors on spring position them opposite each other and then tighten equal amounts each time until tension is off the top...now the top nut needs to come off, slacken that off and remove all the bearings and seats ..keep them in the order they came off as it will be easier to remember how they go back on...now remove the spring from the strut...CAREFULLY lay it down where it won't get knocked or kicked (spring is under extreme tension ..spring clamps slip and the spring will take your arm/head off!!!! I have seen one go through a brick wall)

once spring is off ..place strut in vice or workmate and now use stilton's to remove the large nut at top of the strut (IT WILL BE TIGHT) once off remove the shock absorber fit new one and tighten the large nut up, replace the spring and the rest of the seats and bearings and tighten the nut ..CAREFULLY slacken the spring compressors equal amounts until it is seated right .... and then as they say replacement is a reversal of removal

it really is not as bad as it sounds and if all goes well should take about an hour a side...but if your not sure about anything especially the compressing of the spring ...once it is off the car a garage should not charge that much to do the rest

good luck and if anyone has something to add please just go ahead ..like I said it was a while ago since I did mine and I am bound to have forgot or said something wrong


[img]/smile.gif[/img]

[Chavtastic]

Points to remember

There is little point in lowering your Calibra to improve the handling if the basic suspension components are worn, broken or otherwise in need of replacement. The two most common components that will affect suspension performance are as follows:

Lower arms

The lower arms and more importantly, the bushes within them are vital to the movement of the suspension and the way it responds. If the bushes are worn they will not offer the correct support against the wishbone and cause the arms to move excessively. This will remove the precision needed when driving fast and cornering accurately. If the bush/rubber is split completely, the symptoms will be knocking under load and general bad handling.

(Above) An OE spec Delphi lower arm, complete with balljoint and bushes

Anti-roll bar drop links

The anti-roll bar is useless without the drop-links that enable it to resist changes in the car's body roll. The drop links are essential in maintaining the car's poise mid-corner. Check for excessive play in the bushes and replace as necessary. Expect to pay no more than £10inc VAT each side. Always replace in pairs.

Remember early Calibras had shorter drop links with plastic rings that were prone to breaking.

(Above) A late-spec drop link from a 1996 Calibra 4x4 Turbo.

Needless to say, as well as affecting performance the two items above are M.O.T failures. From experience it can be noted that having both snapped anti-roll bar links replaced with new items will transform the handling in a similar way to lowering an otherwise healthy car would.

Further to these items, it is also worth checking the track rod ends. Steering response is cruicial for fast road driving, and 90% of bad steering problems are down to the bushes in track rod ends. Strut top mounts should also be checked for cracks and wear.

[Molecule]

thank you very much guys

[Fraz]

my god ...did I really write all that


must have been drunk at the time

[RobbieV]

<!--QuoteBegin-Fraz+--><div class='quotetop'>(Fraz)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteEBegin-->my god ...did I really write all that


must have been drunk at the time<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Oh yes, and very handy it was at the time [img]/smile.gif[/img]

[Welsh_Andy]

dunno if relevent but i have had probs with non vaux wishbones & anit roll links. so now i make sure every car i lowered i slap on new vox wishbones.

[Molecule]

Quite expensive though, each arm is 'bout 64