WANTED:How-To / Advice for remote deadlocking..
I've managed to find a copy I had saved offline of the remote deadlocking info from Cavweb (think it was a guy called AndyK did it ..)
<a href="http://www.raiden.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Calibra/RCL/N4148-RXDEADHT.txt" target="_blank">text file</a>
but what I'd really like is someone/lots of people who've done it on a cally in case there is any difference, and also if someone can clear up the bit about fitting a new terminal to the central locking motor , wiring the diode/relay in (solder it?? does it need a box to house it?)
I'm going to try and install my remote locking kit this bank holiday w/end, so it would be nice to do the remote deadlocking at the same time..
answers on a postcard to . . .
<a href="http://www.raiden.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Calibra/RCL/N4148-RXDEADHT.txt" target="_blank">text file</a>
but what I'd really like is someone/lots of people who've done it on a cally in case there is any difference, and also if someone can clear up the bit about fitting a new terminal to the central locking motor , wiring the diode/relay in (solder it?? does it need a box to house it?)
I'm going to try and install my remote locking kit this bank holiday w/end, so it would be nice to do the remote deadlocking at the same time..
answers on a postcard to . . .
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Leigh
OK, just checked the part numbers on the two locking motors I have, and according to the info on the boxes and numbers on the parts they are as follows :-
90493701 drivers (green dot)
90493702 passenger (yellow dot)
Neither of which match the part number in the guide linked to above, but I've seen quite a few people mention that the design changed around 1996 (at least for the passenger motor they mention, not sure about the drivers), so could someone in the know have a look and see what's listed against those part numbers.. purleassssseee
Hopefully the passenger one is the newer version, as mines a 96 cally. (or reg'd in 96, built mid 95 possibly as I found a sticker under the dash with 13/7/95 on it..)
90493701 drivers (green dot)
90493702 passenger (yellow dot)
Neither of which match the part number in the guide linked to above, but I've seen quite a few people mention that the design changed around 1996 (at least for the passenger motor they mention, not sure about the drivers), so could someone in the know have a look and see what's listed against those part numbers.. purleassssseee
Hopefully the passenger one is the newer version, as mines a 96 cally. (or reg'd in 96, built mid 95 possibly as I found a sticker under the dash with 13/7/95 on it..)
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Leigh
LOL, I was just thinking of that actually, if/when I ever get it done.
I don't mind collating all the little bits of info from various sources, assuming I get any!, and I'll try to make a half decent guide.
Theres a passenger side motor listed on ebay at the moment, same part no as the one I have., but in the description it just says "Calibra (all)" for the years it's suitable for.
I didn't mean the above as in "is this right from Andy K" as he obviously knows what he's doing, more as in "I'm a wussy and wan't everything clarified before I start chopping wires" type of things. ..
I think the pole relay diode thingummy bob is infact a small self contained unit as opposed to the bare component I was imagining, after having had a quick look on the Maplins website.
One of the posts on cavweb had "Maplin order code QL80B for Diodes " as the part number, but I couldn't find it on a quick search last night.
I think it's gonna be fit the remote locking kit first and come back to the remote deadlocking when have all info , much as that annoys me..
I don't mind collating all the little bits of info from various sources, assuming I get any!, and I'll try to make a half decent guide.
Theres a passenger side motor listed on ebay at the moment, same part no as the one I have., but in the description it just says "Calibra (all)" for the years it's suitable for.
I didn't mean the above as in "is this right from Andy K" as he obviously knows what he's doing, more as in "I'm a wussy and wan't everything clarified before I start chopping wires" type of things. ..
I think the pole relay diode thingummy bob is infact a small self contained unit as opposed to the bare component I was imagining, after having had a quick look on the Maplins website.
One of the posts on cavweb had "Maplin order code QL80B for Diodes " as the part number, but I couldn't find it on a quick search last night.
I think it's gonna be fit the remote locking kit first and come back to the remote deadlocking when have all info , much as that annoys me..
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Leigh
OK, just been trawling the .com site for info as well. and found <a href="http://www.clubcalibra.com/section/interactive/forum2002/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1414&whichpage=2&SearchTerms=remote,deadlocking" target="_blank">this link </a> (amongst others) that has several mentions of just swapping the drivers door motor for a passenger one, with no mention of the circuit from AndyK's guide.
Now if that's all that needs doing on a cally , yippee!!! somehow I think with my luck it won't be. Isn't the relay circuit to prevent the car deadlocking when locked from the inside or something like that? or do you guys who just swapped the motor without the extra diode/relay just rely on the remote unlocking once you've stopped ? SteveU and Phree your the main stars of that link..! can you remember that far back
Several mentions of various part numbers for the locking motor tho, along with varying colours
Now if that's all that needs doing on a cally , yippee!!! somehow I think with my luck it won't be. Isn't the relay circuit to prevent the car deadlocking when locked from the inside or something like that? or do you guys who just swapped the motor without the extra diode/relay just rely on the remote unlocking once you've stopped ? SteveU and Phree your the main stars of that link..! can you remember that far back
Several mentions of various part numbers for the locking motor tho, along with varying colours
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Leigh
Well, I'm no boffin, but as far as I know, all you have to do is fit a passenger door lock on the drivers side and then fit the VXL remote central locking kit. With the new lock in place it will deadlock the drivers door as well when you press the button. See my "how to" guide about installing the RCL kit!
..and good luck, please send any vital info to us so we can do another "how to" article!
..and good luck, please send any vital info to us so we can do another "how to" article!
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skellem
Already read your guide mate, crystal clear as well, good bit about clearing up the confusing wiring instructions as well. I've got a local copy saved on PC as well just in case net connection went off when I was half way through!
Meant to print it out in work today and bloomin forgot ! arrghhh
Right, tommorow weather permitting (and no alcohol degraded senses..) I'll give it a go. Still not sure if the passenger motor I've got is right, I'll see tommorow when I come to change them over!.....
Meant to print it out in work today and bloomin forgot ! arrghhh
Right, tommorow weather permitting (and no alcohol degraded senses..) I'll give it a go. Still not sure if the passenger motor I've got is right, I'll see tommorow when I come to change them over!.....
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Leigh
Ooooh the tension mounts....
Just made a quick call to VX dealer for part numbers and prices (St Helens Vauxhall are damn helpfull the few times I've phoned em..)
Gave the guy the chassis number for my 95/96 8V and he got the part number for the passenger side motor , confirmed as 90493702.
Which is the one I have now
90493701 came up as the drivers side. Doesn't answer wether mine has that part fitted in the passenger door at the moment tho, guess I'll have a look when I have the door card off next..
Just made a quick call to VX dealer for part numbers and prices (St Helens Vauxhall are damn helpfull the few times I've phoned em..)
Gave the guy the chassis number for my 95/96 8V and he got the part number for the passenger side motor , confirmed as 90493702.
Which is the one I have now
90493701 came up as the drivers side. Doesn't answer wether mine has that part fitted in the passenger door at the moment tho, guess I'll have a look when I have the door card off next..
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Leigh
OK, I've started....
done the LED into blanking plate bit (after 5 mins of gradually widening the hole to get it to go through..)
Question for later, if I decide to fit the passenger motor today, while still having the normal door handles with locks, will I need to disconnect the manual deadlock lever from the drivers side door? I don't know wether it would stop the motor from deadlocking it if it's still connected by the rod to the barrel..
done the LED into blanking plate bit (after 5 mins of gradually widening the hole to get it to go through..)
Question for later, if I decide to fit the passenger motor today, while still having the normal door handles with locks, will I need to disconnect the manual deadlock lever from the drivers side door? I don't know wether it would stop the motor from deadlocking it if it's still connected by the rod to the barrel..
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Leigh
OK, that went well..... NOT!!!!
(to clarify before I start.. I didn't even attempt changing the drivers door motor today..)
Took me ages to do the wiring cos I'm mr cautious,, and the fact that I cut the wrong wire first, (cut the white/black (reverse lights) instead of black/white (hazzards) ), so that threw my confidence for a bit.
But then I got into the swing of things, except I HATE scotchlocks with a vengance now, some of them I couldn't get to click closed (tho the metal 'bracket' that bites into the wires is ok), so had to tape em shut.
Wired it all up, including the confusion cleared bit on the drivers side (blu/black, & red/yellow wires)(thanks to the how-to on here)..
plugged the connector in and the central locking 'spasmed' for a couple of seconds, as expected, locking the doors (which were open.)
Tried to disarm with the fob.....nothing...
have had a mess around for 30 mins or so just to make sure I can still lock the car and get into it again as I'm off out now (had planned to be out by now, silly me!)
At one point the factory alarm was behaving strangely like it did once last year, it armed and then when I start the engine and wait for it to stop honking the horn/lights etc,. turn the ignition off and the alarm starts to rearm.
Managed to reset it by putting key to Pos II and disconnectiing battery for a few mins.
Tried again, closed doors, pressed fob ..... Hazzards flash, CLUNK CLUNK doors locked , windows didnt go up (thought maybe cos I hadnt reprogrammed since disconnecting battery), LED (for remote kit) started flashing , interior alarm LED (factory fitted) starts flashing ....errr....... 
It seems to lock ok from the fob (apart from windows not raising), but won't unlock. Pressing the fob once the car is locked doesn't do anything.
To get in I have to turn the key 45 deg left as if was locking the car (not deadlock) and then 45 deg right to open. (it won't go 45 deg right straight away with going 45 def left first).
As it stands now it's alarmed and deadlocked on the normal factory alarm by the drivers door lock as normal, but the new LED for the remote kit is also flashing. I've treble checked that I can still get in after the alarm has fully armed, even when deadlocked, so tommorow I'll have to make a list of what happens under each circumstance.
Does anyone spot anything obvious in the above, like I've got a connection wrong or not made securely?, I did take a LOT of time over it to make sure. Only the green earth wire is suspect to me, I couldn't see any bolt behind the air duct as it mentions in the guide, so it's currently hooked onto a screw prodtruding through the chassis just behind the air ducting.
I'm obviously eager for suggestions, as I want it sorted tommorow , I'm not comfortable leaving it anywhere if there's potential problems with it.
please reply a.s.ap anyone
(to clarify before I start.. I didn't even attempt changing the drivers door motor today..)
Took me ages to do the wiring cos I'm mr cautious,, and the fact that I cut the wrong wire first, (cut the white/black (reverse lights) instead of black/white (hazzards) ), so that threw my confidence for a bit.
But then I got into the swing of things, except I HATE scotchlocks with a vengance now, some of them I couldn't get to click closed (tho the metal 'bracket' that bites into the wires is ok), so had to tape em shut.
Wired it all up, including the confusion cleared bit on the drivers side (blu/black, & red/yellow wires)(thanks to the how-to on here)..
plugged the connector in and the central locking 'spasmed' for a couple of seconds, as expected, locking the doors (which were open.)
Tried to disarm with the fob.....nothing...
have had a mess around for 30 mins or so just to make sure I can still lock the car and get into it again as I'm off out now (had planned to be out by now, silly me!)
At one point the factory alarm was behaving strangely like it did once last year, it armed and then when I start the engine and wait for it to stop honking the horn/lights etc,. turn the ignition off and the alarm starts to rearm.
Managed to reset it by putting key to Pos II and disconnectiing battery for a few mins.
Tried again, closed doors, pressed fob ..... Hazzards flash
, CLUNK CLUNK doors locked , windows didnt go up (thought maybe cos I hadnt reprogrammed since disconnecting battery), LED (for remote kit) started flashing , interior alarm LED (factory fitted) starts flashing ....errr.......
It seems to lock ok from the fob (apart from windows not raising), but won't unlock. Pressing the fob once the car is locked doesn't do anything.
To get in I have to turn the key 45 deg left as if was locking the car (not deadlock) and then 45 deg right to open. (it won't go 45 deg right straight away with going 45 def left first).
As it stands now it's alarmed and deadlocked on the normal factory alarm by the drivers door lock as normal, but the new LED for the remote kit is also flashing. I've treble checked that I can still get in after the alarm has fully armed, even when deadlocked, so tommorow I'll have to make a list of what happens under each circumstance.
Does anyone spot anything obvious in the above, like I've got a connection wrong or not made securely?, I did take a LOT of time over it to make sure. Only the green earth wire is suspect to me, I couldn't see any bolt behind the air duct as it mentions in the guide, so it's currently hooked onto a screw prodtruding through the chassis just behind the air ducting.
I'm obviously eager for suggestions, as I want it sorted tommorow , I'm not comfortable leaving it anywhere if there's potential problems with it.
please reply a.s.ap anyone
-
Leigh
New member, need info
Morning all, hmmm, nice sunny bank holiday sunday (isn't that a contradiction in Britian?), what shall I do today,,.. relax,wash the car, gofor a drive..
nah, I know, I crouch in/by the footwell and try sorting my remote locking out
Had a quick email from SteveU last night (thanks Steve by the way.) , he thinks I may have got the wrong wiring harness on the passenger side where you patch in the brown/white, brown/red and brown/black wires (god I must have read the instructions way too much cos I knew those colours without looking at the book!)
So off to Halfords or Maplins I go to get some more scotchlocks, and hopefully get a result later,
watch this space.
If no one hears from me today plesae drive by and rescue me from being locked in my car
(or lynched by the neighbours for the constant alarm noises..)
nah, I know, I crouch in/by the footwell and try sorting my remote locking out
Had a quick email from SteveU last night (thanks Steve by the way.) , he thinks I may have got the wrong wiring harness on the passenger side where you patch in the brown/white, brown/red and brown/black wires (god I must have read the instructions way too much cos I knew those colours without looking at the book!)
So off to Halfords or Maplins I go to get some more scotchlocks, and hopefully get a result later,
watch this space.
If no one hears from me today plesae drive by and rescue me from being locked in my car
(or lynched by the neighbours for the constant alarm noises..)
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Leigh
After spending a day and a half the other weekend (that hot one) fitting an alarm I know what fun you having.
A word of warning about scotch locks, try and solder the wires if you can.
When I fitted ths alarm I soldered all (25-30 wires) all but 3, which I used scotch locks on. Don't ask me why but you can guess I had problems and it turned out to be one of the scotch lock connections.
Just finished the paint work on my handles and will be also fitting those soon.
A word of warning about scotch locks, try and solder the wires if you can.
When I fitted ths alarm I soldered all (25-30 wires) all but 3, which I used scotch locks on. Don't ask me why but you can guess I had problems and it turned out to be one of the scotch lock connections.
Just finished the paint work on my handles and will be also fitting those soon.
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Missionmasque
Does anyone know how to get the antenna off a cally. ???
Yup!!
I've jsut put all the trim back on, had given up on it for today, but didn't want to leave it with it's guts showing..
I went to Maplins & Halfords earlier today, got various connectors, including some more scotchlocks, to redo the suspected bad connections.
(and a butt connector to fix the reverse light wire I accidentally chopped yesterday).
Anyway, I treble checked that I had the correct loom for the brown/white, brown/red and brown/black wires, even took the big rubber grommet ouf of the body where the wiring runs through, so I could move it by hand and watch inside the glovebox area to see which one it was, I had got the right one first time, but I wasn't taking anything for granted by now..
I redid the brown/white (unlock pulse) and brown/black (windows) with new scotchlocks (which seemed easier than the ones from the kit, tho they look exactly the same.
Tried the whole thing again, NOPE! still wouldn't raise windows or unlock the doors.
Gave up, trim back on, locked car with fob, ......up go the windows , unlocked with fob, and the doors unlocked.
Suspect a bad connection still on those two wires, they are quite tight as there was hardly any slack in the loom. Also I couldn't quite get the kick panel on flush, .
Tested it a few times, all ok. Gave the kick panel a bit of a jiggle/whack, and ..... windows don't go up / doors don't unlock with fob again.
I think that pretty much nails it being a bad connection . When I try to unlock with the fob I can hear something click about 4 or 5 times in a second, but nothing moves. Is there anything in the kick panel area that's directly related to the locking and /or windows, ? I noticed several plug connectors on the block at the bottom of the kick panel area. Maybe one of those is loose?
I am tempted now as it's still nice and sunny to go and have another look at those two wires. I think I might end up putting another bit of wire in between the two loom parts to get some more slack, and join the remote kit's wires in with it. Can't be any worse than it is now, and at least I'll know it's got a connection.
I've jsut put all the trim back on, had given up on it for today, but didn't want to leave it with it's guts showing..
I went to Maplins & Halfords earlier today, got various connectors, including some more scotchlocks, to redo the suspected bad connections.
(and a butt connector to fix the reverse light wire I accidentally chopped yesterday).
Anyway, I treble checked that I had the correct loom for the brown/white, brown/red and brown/black wires, even took the big rubber grommet ouf of the body where the wiring runs through, so I could move it by hand and watch inside the glovebox area to see which one it was, I had got the right one first time, but I wasn't taking anything for granted by now..
I redid the brown/white (unlock pulse) and brown/black (windows) with new scotchlocks (which seemed easier than the ones from the kit, tho they look exactly the same.
Tried the whole thing again, NOPE! still wouldn't raise windows or unlock the doors.
Gave up, trim back on, locked car with fob, ......up go the windows
, unlocked with fob, and the doors unlocked.
Suspect a bad connection still on those two wires, they are quite tight as there was hardly any slack in the loom. Also I couldn't quite get the kick panel on flush, .
Tested it a few times, all ok. Gave the kick panel a bit of a jiggle/whack, and ..... windows don't go up / doors don't unlock with fob again.
I think that pretty much nails it being a bad connection . When I try to unlock with the fob I can hear something click about 4 or 5 times in a second, but nothing moves. Is there anything in the kick panel area that's directly related to the locking and /or windows, ? I noticed several plug connectors on the block at the bottom of the kick panel area. Maybe one of those is loose?
I am tempted now as it's still nice and sunny to go and have another look at those two wires. I think I might end up putting another bit of wire in between the two loom parts to get some more slack, and join the remote kit's wires in with it. Can't be any worse than it is now, and at least I'll know it's got a connection.
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Leigh
OK... I am now getting VERY p*ssed off with this thing...
content with the windows not raising and doors not unlocking until tommorow, I went out to unlock the car aoubt an hour ago, ....and the remote does sod all, LED doesn't light. "Hmm, battery must have been old sitting on the shelf in Mr Warehouse" . Get other remote,.......LED works... won't disarm... took me about 2 mins of waving it around the car (even inside as I had the windows open) until it disarmed. Swapped battery from live remote to dead one, and still nothing, so that remote has lasted all of about 2 hours out of the box....
I'll have to wait until Tuesday to phone Autovaux and see if they will get me a replacement. I know you can send off for them, but I think 2 hours use is a bit low don't you?
I tested the arming again and it locked ok, then I had the same peformance getting it to unlock, the antenna wire is in exactly the same place as it was earlier when it was activating/deactivating ok, so I'm hoping it's just a weak battery.
Luckily the stock alarm still arms with the deadlock on drivers door until I can try and find somewhere tommorow that sells the little 12V batteries that the remotes use (anyone got replacement before from places other than Vaux?)
Hopefully tommorow I can get the windows and unlocking wires sorted once and for all.
Let's just say I don't think I'll be attempting any more projects that required chopping into the loom....
content with the windows not raising and doors not unlocking until tommorow, I went out to unlock the car aoubt an hour ago, ....and the remote does sod all, LED doesn't light. "Hmm, battery must have been old sitting on the shelf in Mr Warehouse" . Get other remote,.......LED works... won't disarm... took me about 2 mins of waving it around the car (even inside as I had the windows open) until it disarmed. Swapped battery from live remote to dead one, and still nothing, so that remote has lasted all of about 2 hours out of the box....
I'll have to wait until Tuesday to phone Autovaux and see if they will get me a replacement. I know you can send off for them, but I think 2 hours use is a bit low don't you?
I tested the arming again and it locked ok, then I had the same peformance getting it to unlock, the antenna wire is in exactly the same place as it was earlier when it was activating/deactivating ok, so I'm hoping it's just a weak battery.
Luckily the stock alarm still arms with the deadlock on drivers door until I can try and find somewhere tommorow that sells the little 12V batteries that the remotes use (anyone got replacement before from places other than Vaux?)
Hopefully tommorow I can get the windows and unlocking wires sorted once and for all.
Let's just say I don't think I'll be attempting any more projects that required chopping into the loom....
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Leigh
Me again..
Just had another skim through the remote deadlocking guide (even tho it's not needed apparently on the cally, apart from changing the motor over).
noticed this..
"Typically F,G & H registration cars
Brown/Red Locks
Brown/White Unlock
Brown/Black Lifts windows
Typically J,K,L,M & N registration cars
Brown/White Unlock
Brown/Black Locks & Lifts windows
"
Is this the case on the cally, sounds right to me seeing as holding the key at 'lock' position raises the windows.(not deadlock). I'm just trying to establish which of the 3 brown wires that I've got problems are relevant. I connected all 3 as per the instructions,maybe the brown/red isn't used on the cally?
Just had another skim through the remote deadlocking guide (even tho it's not needed apparently on the cally, apart from changing the motor over).
noticed this..
"Typically F,G & H registration cars
Brown/Red Locks
Brown/White Unlock
Brown/Black Lifts windows
Typically J,K,L,M & N registration cars
Brown/White Unlock
Brown/Black Locks & Lifts windows
"
Is this the case on the cally, sounds right to me seeing as holding the key at 'lock' position raises the windows.(not deadlock). I'm just trying to establish which of the 3 brown wires that I've got problems are relevant. I connected all 3 as per the instructions,maybe the brown/red isn't used on the cally?
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Leigh
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