How do you 'turn' the handbrake adjuster!??
How do you 'turn' the handbrake adjuster!??
OK, I give up!
I know people have said it's fiddly, but how the hell do you turn the adjuster on each hub for the handbrake?
I can see the little 'cog' type piece, with a nice little slot saying "please put a screwdriver head in here mr novice mechanic", but I'm damned if I can move it...
Tried pushing the sides of it to try and turn it IN/OUT, doesn't wanna budge. I guess it could be seized, but I think I'm just being stupid.
The nearside rear holds solid, but the offside still turns fairly freely when the handbrake is on, and it takes 7 clicks to 'hold' the car - and not all that reassuringly at that!
On a less happy note, while trying to adjust the handbrake, I spotted that the mounting plate that holds the two cables (after the main adjuster bracket) is coming away from the floorpan. Anyone know how much I should expect to pay to get it welded back on, I wouldn't think it's that big a job, but as I've never welded so much as a paperclip before I don't know for sure.
I'll do the prep and remove the back seat so the carpet can be lifted clear while it's being done.
I know people have said it's fiddly, but how the hell do you turn the adjuster on each hub for the handbrake?
I can see the little 'cog' type piece, with a nice little slot saying "please put a screwdriver head in here mr novice mechanic", but I'm damned if I can move it...
Tried pushing the sides of it to try and turn it IN/OUT, doesn't wanna budge. I guess it could be seized, but I think I'm just being stupid.
The nearside rear holds solid, but the offside still turns fairly freely when the handbrake is on, and it takes 7 clicks to 'hold' the car - and not all that reassuringly at that!
On a less happy note, while trying to adjust the handbrake, I spotted that the mounting plate that holds the two cables (after the main adjuster bracket) is coming away from the floorpan. Anyone know how much I should expect to pay to get it welded back on, I wouldn't think it's that big a job, but as I've never welded so much as a paperclip before I don't know for sure.
I'll do the prep and remove the back seat so the carpet can be lifted clear while it's being done.
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Leigh
yeah i had all sorts of problesm with mine, one side would mite more than the other, in the end i took the handbrake cable off on one side, it was siiezed up with rust, so hi hung it on end and worked oile down it, done the trick when i put it back on, might be worth trying, disconnect the cable and see if you can pull it through the casing with your hands. if you cant thats ur problem
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Doodley
<!--quoteo--><div class='quotetop'></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->with the hub on, there is a hole in the hub that lines up with the "cog" type thing, shie a torch through the hole you can see it, poke a screwdriver in and u can push it round<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Yeh, I could see it and I did try to push it round with the screwdriver tip but couldn't seem to budge it, and to be honest I was a bit wary of b*ggering something up.
Didn't really want to have to remove the disc as it was (supposed to be) a quick look after work. If I'd had a look this w/end gone I'd have probably taken it all off (never done that before either).
I suppose I could take the lot off tommorow evening after work if the weathers fine again, how long would you say ? - oh damn, just remembered I need to get the right size allen key/hex bit to undo the caliper bolts...arrggh
The handbrake plate needs welding anyway, might just have to get the garage to do it, MOT is due end of the week [img]/sad.gif[/img]
Mine ickle baby 8V hasn't got a heatshield under the handbrake adjuster, dunno wether it did originally or not..
Yeh, I could see it and I did try to push it round with the screwdriver tip but couldn't seem to budge it, and to be honest I was a bit wary of b*ggering something up.
Didn't really want to have to remove the disc as it was (supposed to be) a quick look after work. If I'd had a look this w/end gone I'd have probably taken it all off (never done that before either).
I suppose I could take the lot off tommorow evening after work if the weathers fine again, how long would you say ? - oh damn, just remembered I need to get the right size allen key/hex bit to undo the caliper bolts...arrggh
The handbrake plate needs welding anyway, might just have to get the garage to do it, MOT is due end of the week [img]/sad.gif[/img]
Mine ickle baby 8V hasn't got a heatshield under the handbrake adjuster, dunno wether it did originally or not..
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Leigh
its fairly easy, depends how experienced you are, im pretty much a novice, took me probably hour n a half 2 hours to change both sets of shoes, free up the nearside handbrake cable and adjust the handbrake, when you take the hub off, the springs hold in place, but carefull if u take them off coz when they ping they go fast!
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Doodley
with the adjuster cog, the trick is not to be scared of breaking it. you can use a bit of force to "lever" a flat blade screwdriver to turn it.
The adjuster is held in place pretty securely once the shoes, springs and discs are on, and it wont go anywhere with a little force and a bit of swearing.
The adjuster is held in place pretty securely once the shoes, springs and discs are on, and it wont go anywhere with a little force and a bit of swearing.
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TonyDTM
That sounds a bit more reassuring [img]/smile.gif[/img]
I assume I was right in thinking you stick the screwdriver tip into the small 'slot' to lever it? or is it better to get the screwdriver on the outside of it to try and turn it. I did try both ways but without much luck.
MOT isn't due till end of week so I might have another go at turning the adjuster tommorow (at least now I've moved the handbrake nut recently it won't be as hard to shift).
Still curious how much I should expect for the welding tho if any of you have had it done..
I think I might have b*ggered something when I was looking earlier tho, before I spotted the adjuster 'thing' at the bottom, I spotted some small screws near the spring and thought they were the adjuster(s), I'm sure one of them disappeared after I tried to turn it anticlockwise with a phillips..
If I do end up taking the disc off I'll try and remember to take pics, might help for others (including me!) when trying to visualise the adjuster when the disc is still on.
What do you lot use to drive the retaining pins out for the rear calipers? (didn't realise they weren't allen/hex bolts like the fronts until I looked through the Haynes earlier)
UPDATE:
[img]/sad.gif[/img]
Definately sound like something has come 'off' when I turned one of the screws, I could here something rubbing in time with the wheel on the drive to work this morning (doesn't sound like the constant pad noise), just hoping it doesn't suddenly jam the brake on while I'm driving..
Phoned Vaux and Autovaux for an idea on prices...can you guess who is cheapest..
Vaux:
Shoes £36.81 + ' a few quid for springs'
Autovaux:
Shoes £12.50
Drum springs £3.76
+ adjuster springs at £1 each(ish)
Question: as I haven't had the disc off the hub yet to look, what's the difference between the drum springs and the adjuster ones,and how many of each do I need for the whole rear? Looks to me like 4 springs on each hub from the little I could see through the disc holes.. (sorry, in work at the mo so can't check Haynes)
I assume I was right in thinking you stick the screwdriver tip into the small 'slot' to lever it? or is it better to get the screwdriver on the outside of it to try and turn it. I did try both ways but without much luck.
MOT isn't due till end of week so I might have another go at turning the adjuster tommorow (at least now I've moved the handbrake nut recently it won't be as hard to shift).
Still curious how much I should expect for the welding tho if any of you have had it done..
I think I might have b*ggered something when I was looking earlier tho, before I spotted the adjuster 'thing' at the bottom, I spotted some small screws near the spring and thought they were the adjuster(s), I'm sure one of them disappeared after I tried to turn it anticlockwise with a phillips..
If I do end up taking the disc off I'll try and remember to take pics, might help for others (including me!) when trying to visualise the adjuster when the disc is still on.
What do you lot use to drive the retaining pins out for the rear calipers? (didn't realise they weren't allen/hex bolts like the fronts until I looked through the Haynes earlier)
UPDATE:
[img]/sad.gif[/img]
Definately sound like something has come 'off' when I turned one of the screws, I could here something rubbing in time with the wheel on the drive to work this morning (doesn't sound like the constant pad noise), just hoping it doesn't suddenly jam the brake on while I'm driving..
Phoned Vaux and Autovaux for an idea on prices...can you guess who is cheapest..
Vaux:
Shoes £36.81 + ' a few quid for springs'
Autovaux:
Shoes £12.50
Drum springs £3.76
+ adjuster springs at £1 each(ish)
Question: as I haven't had the disc off the hub yet to look, what's the difference between the drum springs and the adjuster ones,and how many of each do I need for the whole rear? Looks to me like 4 springs on each hub from the little I could see through the disc holes.. (sorry, in work at the mo so can't check Haynes)
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Leigh
Got to admit it's a fiddly job but can be done, saying that i had to take mine apart as it was seized.
As for the calipers, cant you just undo the 2 19mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket on and pull the caliper careful to one side. MAking sure it's supported as brake pipes still connected.
Pretty sure thats what i had to do.
The rear damper might get in the way if you dont have a good socket set but that can always be undone aswell, 22mm if i recall.
Will
As for the calipers, cant you just undo the 2 19mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket on and pull the caliper careful to one side. MAking sure it's supported as brake pipes still connected.
Pretty sure thats what i had to do.
The rear damper might get in the way if you dont have a good socket set but that can always be undone aswell, 22mm if i recall.
Will
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WillsToy
<!--quoteo--><div class='quotetop'></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->cant you just undo the 2 19mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket on and pull the caliper careful to one side<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->
That would be handy if I can do that, did you just feed the disc back between the pads when you put it back in place?
I'm thinking at this point I might have to leave the car at home after the MOT expires tommorow and try and do the work over the w/end, I'm sure I can survive oh-so-efficient buses around here to get to work (grrr, takes ages tho, something like 1hour for a 15min drive..), at least for one day.
That would be handy if I can do that, did you just feed the disc back between the pads when you put it back in place?
I'm thinking at this point I might have to leave the car at home after the MOT expires tommorow and try and do the work over the w/end, I'm sure I can survive oh-so-efficient buses around here to get to work (grrr, takes ages tho, something like 1hour for a 15min drive..), at least for one day.
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Leigh
<!--QuoteBegin-Leigh+--><div class='quotetop'>(Leigh)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteEBegin-->That would be handy if I can do that, did you just feed the disc back between the pads when you put it back in place?
I'm thinking at this point I might have to leave the car at home after the MOT expires tommorow and try and do the work over the w/end, I'm sure I can survive oh-so-efficient buses around here to get to work (grrr, takes ages tho, something like 1hour for a 15min drive..), at least for one day.<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Yep i had no problem in sliding the disc back in, just make sure no one presses yoru brake pedal etc, and worse case you can always prise them apart again.
You might need a spare jack to hold up/align the hub to the damper if you remove the bolt, it can be a bit hit and miss just holding up with hands etc
And as Jay says above the bolts will need a good torque wrench/ extension bar to shift
Will
I'm thinking at this point I might have to leave the car at home after the MOT expires tommorow and try and do the work over the w/end, I'm sure I can survive oh-so-efficient buses around here to get to work (grrr, takes ages tho, something like 1hour for a 15min drive..), at least for one day.<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Yep i had no problem in sliding the disc back in, just make sure no one presses yoru brake pedal etc, and worse case you can always prise them apart again.
You might need a spare jack to hold up/align the hub to the damper if you remove the bolt, it can be a bit hit and miss just holding up with hands etc
And as Jay says above the bolts will need a good torque wrench/ extension bar to shift
Will
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WillsToy
Just got in from work and read the above 2 post, thanks again for more enlightenment on it. I was gonna (think about...maybe...possibly....can you tell I'm not that keen on it !!) take them off tonight and have a look, but it's looking less likely right now, think I'm best leaving it till the weekend until I've got time to take it slowly.
Haven't got the welding arranged yet, and several motor factors around here had the shoes but didn't have the springs/kits in stock [img]/sad.gif[/img]
Haven't got the welding arranged yet, and several motor factors around here had the shoes but didn't have the springs/kits in stock [img]/sad.gif[/img]
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Leigh
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