Powerflex camber bushes wtf??

[BlackKnight]

I bought a bunch of these, lol. I installed eccentric powerflex bushes on both the inner and outer mount points of both rear wishbones.

But when I went to get the car tracked, when they "cycle" the bushes it only seems to affect rear toe. And it is obvious, the wheel toes in and toes out A LOT when the bush is cycled, but the camber hardly changes at all?

Are they doing something wrong? They got the car onto the tracking table, they undid the screws that hold the bushes a bit so they can turn the bushes easier. They also lifted the car a bit to turn them easir. Then turned a bit, lower the car see the tracking, raise the car turn a bit lower the car see the tracking...

Anyway, it seems only the toe changes as I said. so... wtf?

My camber is currently around 3 degrees which is just on the limit of factory specs. But 3 degrees on the rear on a front engined car is ridiculous. It also looks ridiculous, it looks very wrong. I want around 1 30' - 40' even though I realise that is below factory specs.
I dont see how a FWD car should have more rear camber than front. And the front also has ridiculously low factory castor settings.

So, has anyone sorted their camber with powerflex bushes or noticed a worthwhile(numbers please) change in camber with them? What did you do to get it?

Has anyone sorted their camber in some other way? Cutting, welding, other kits etc. Pics please? [img]/smile.gif[/img]

And by "sorted" I dont mean getting to factory specs as mine is still just within factory specs after being lowered by 35mm...

[Stupink]

The outer bush does toe, the inner does camber, set the inner one to its maximum setting, IE hole fully down so the arm is up as far as it will go. the outer one for toe, well i've not played with that. but you dont seem to be having a problem ajusting that.

What they're probably doing is not fixing the bush, as soon as they lower/move the car the bush is swinging back round to the hole at the top with gravity.

[BlackKnight]

i thought of that too. but the retards at the tracking place think they're so smart and dont listen to anything i say.

ill try another place I guess..

but i still dont see why should the inner bush modify camber and outer toe? they are both almost inline and rotating one bush rotates the wishbone around the other bush. so it seems kinda irrelevant do you rotate one side around the other or the other way around?
it would be logical to me they both alter both toe and camber and if you have both it just allows more correction?

do you have any number or idea how many degrees does it alter camber when on maximum? because obviously i want some serious changes - i want almost 2 degrees less. i want rear camber to be at least the same as front. i have a front camber/castor kit installed and that works fine. i have dialed 1 30' for front camber and also max castor(i got around 2 40' castor). i would like the same for rear or even less camber as there's no weight at the back so the tires will not "deform" as much when in bends IMO.
dunno how the factory specified settings are that weird, most other FWD cars have far less camber at the rear than the cally. other cars also have more castor, dunny why vauxhall skimps on castor? nothing wrong with having lots of castor..

[Stupink]

I don't know any figures.
they are not both camber though, the angles of the arm make it very confusing to think about or explain. but if they were both just inline and moved up/down as your currently thinking then why would the camber alter when you lower the car?
if you've ever had the spring/shock off and moved the arm it becomes apparent how it all moves about.

the outer bush barly changes camber, but depending on whether you set the hole to the front or rear of the car more you change the toe of the wheel by moving the wheel hub more forwards/rear.. it kinda pivots on the inner bush and so sets toe..
the inner one is fairly easy to see how it does camber, obviously raising the inner arm is going to bring the tyre out at the top. as the hub is fixed.

I would try another place as you say and see how you get on.

[BlackKnight]

buh, edited the post completely after you answered.


thanks for the help, ill definitely try another place before i start cutting and welding

[Stupink]

the Gmac kit is better quality and easier to setup imo. but i've used both and they both work and do the job, but i dont think either is goign to give you as much ajustment as you require. they will get it back to vaux spec but not much further, the problem is that you can't move the inner arm up too much or it contacts the body.. also you'd have very little flex in the bush if you moved the hole too close to the outer edge. to get much more ajustment you may well need to get the welder out and cut the arm, perhaps re-weld and plate the arm with a slight drop in it, and finish the settings with the camber ajuster bushes. as i say i dont think you'd get the ajustment you want without doign something like taht as the arm simply wont raise enough without hitting the shell.. even at full ajustment on the bushes its very close.

make sure if you do any cutting like that you are competant with the welder and plate it properly, or give it to someone who can [img]/smile.gif[/img] its a considerable danger if done poorly, get a nice high power welder so you can get some really deep welds

[BlackKnight]

im kinda sorry i didnt get the kmac rear kit. but i ordered a complete set of powerflex bushes so i thought i might as well get the rear eccentric ones and try using it to fix camber.

seems ill have to cut&weld a bit. i thought of drilling/extending the holes for the screw that holds the bush. extend the hole upwards to move the bush up a bit. there's not much room above the inner bush, but it could be moved up about half an inch. wich is something.
just that im not sure if tightening the screw will be enough for it not to move up and down along the extended screw holes?
if that would work it would be nice as then i could just undo the screw and position the arm as i like and tighten the screw back :/

if not, id have to weld it up and drill a new hole or something so it cant move :/

[BlackKnight]

oh yea, ill also be modifying the front wishbone.

i though id remove the small plate with the ball joint that's rivetted(i think thats what how you say it?) into the wishbone. remove it, extend the plate a bit, drill new holes in it and rivet it back into the wishbone. i want to move it forwars as much as i can without the wheel fouling the arch liner or the bumper on the front. i want max possible castor.

think its a good idea?

[Stupink]

I dont think you're going to be abel to get the rear arms any higher moving the hole, as i said before with the bushes on max ajustment the arm is almost touching the car, you'll not get half an inch thats for sure.
I woul say if you cut the arm with a bandsaw from the bottom up but dont cut the top at all... then bend it open a however much you want, tack weld, try it on the geometry (you'll have to do the work where you can test it. or buy an angle measureing device yourself. then when you've got it righ tweld down the cut and then plate the lot. will be plenty strong enough. just be carefull not to go too carried away with how much you open it up.

[BlackKnight]

thats a very good idea [img]/smile.gif[/img] thanks!

[Stupink]

well it would be if you cut it the other way lol. needs cutting top down doesnt it. doh.. lol. well i'm sure you'll have about 20 looks at it all to make sure before you make any cuts lol.