at a complete loss

Any electrical issues

by ice man » Mon Jun 19, 2006 9:36 pm

Other things to check are fuel pressure (sounds daft) and all the hoses that go onto the SFI / inlet areas, also the CTS.

Ive had similar symptons with all these areas at fault.
ice man
 

by ice man » Mon Jun 19, 2006 9:39 pm

my fuel hose fron the tank to the pump was perished / split and sucking in air. It's difficult to get to, but the symptons do sound a bit like air in the fuel / low fuel pressure. Maybe the ECU fault code thing is just sending you on a wild goose chase.

<!--QuoteBegin-Animal+--><div class='quotetop'>(Animal)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteEBegin-->Are you checking the fault code when the engine is running?
If you're not, it will throw the cranksensor fault up on its own.<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->

There's a schrader valve on the fuel rail, with the engine running, or if you turn the ignition on / off a few times, you should get a good squirt of fuel out and no air. If it hisses air out check the fuel system out.
ice man
 

by cornishtaz » Mon Jun 19, 2006 11:21 pm

will check fuel lines tomorrow but can't see why they would cause my fauly symptoms
cornishtaz
 

by cornishtaz » Mon Jun 19, 2006 11:24 pm

will check fuel lines tomorrow but can't see why they would cause my fault symptoms
cornishtaz
 

by callyben » Tue Jun 20, 2006 1:34 am

you aint breaking it. if i had the time i would come over and give you a hand but as you know im very busy.

i dont think ove will charge a lot but its still ££££

if i get chance i will pop over this week or after work next week.
callyben
 

by ice man » Tue Jun 20, 2006 6:41 am

It's only a two minute check to pressurize the fuel line (run engine or turn ignition on / off a few times) undo cap on schrader valve on fuel rail, stand to one side a bit and use a pointy object (pencil, screwdriver etc...) to depress the pin in the middle.

It should squirt petrol over the front bumper. if it hisses it's pulling air in, if it dribbles the pump output is too low.

mine had similar symptons - difficulty starting and rough running then the icv eventually gets the revs up to 800 rpm or so...

I think it's worth ruling out.
ice man
 

by cornishtaz » Tue Jun 20, 2006 9:48 am

Going to carry out a few more checks today, fuel pressure, compression and recheck timing will also clean cranksensor and toothed wheel. Will keep you updated.
cornishtaz
 

by cornishtaz » Tue Jun 20, 2006 11:13 am

Can anyone with an early ecotec cally pse check the colour and pin numbers where the cranksensor plugs in as it looks like mine are colour coded differently to the cct diagram on TIS. Also some resistance readings across the pins of the cranksensor itself. Thanks
cornishtaz
 

by cornishtaz » Tue Jun 20, 2006 7:23 pm

Done loads of checks today,
Fuel pressure -- ok
Compression -- 15 bar
Oil pressure -- 4 bar at idle
Timing spot on
Crank sensor ring notch free from objects and all other teeth in good condition. The notch appears when the timing mark is between the 2 large dimples on the aux pulley fitted to the crank.
Checked wiring from ECU to crank sensor plug ecu pin 2--3, pin 3--1, 21-- 2, I've got a cct diagram and it shows the following ecu to sensor pins 2--3, 3--2, 21--1 can anyone confirm the correct pin allocations.
Checked resistance reading of cranksensor and got 1--2 3.6M<!--fonto:Times New Roman--><span style="font-family:Times New Roman"><!--/fonto-->Ω, <!--fontc--></span><!--/fontc--><!--fonto:Verdana--><span style="font-family:Verdana"><!--/fonto-->1--3 3.2M<!--fontc--></span><!--/fontc--><!--fonto:Times New Roman--><span style="font-family:Times New Roman"><!--/fonto-->Ω, <!--fontc--></span><!--/fontc--><!--fonto:Verdana--><span style="font-family:Verdana"><!--/fonto-->2--3 open cct. Checked the old sensor and got the following readings 1--2 500<!--fonto:Times New Roman--><span style="font-family:Times New Roman"><!--/fonto--><!--sizeo:3--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->Ω<!--fonto:Verdana--><span style="font-family:Verdana"><!--/fonto-->,<!--sizeo:2--><span style="font-size:10pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo--> 1--3 open cct and 2--3 open cct. So it looks like the both the old and new sensor is knackered.<!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--><!--fontc--></span><!--/fontc--><!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--><!--fontc--></span><!--/fontc-->
I think I ve just about exhausted every check but if anyone else can either expand on the above findings or got any other ideas then pse let me know.

Thanks<!--fontc--></span><!--/fontc-->
cornishtaz
 

by Paul » Wed Jun 21, 2006 8:43 am

In the 2 years I owned my old ecotec I had 3 camsensors, and 3 cranksensors.

They were a rubbish design, although interference was thought to be a major contributing factor. (I believe vaux brought out a modified camsensor later on to rectify this)

Everytime I replaced a sensor it would be ok for a few months, then the fault would come back. It was very annoying.
Paul
 

by cornishtaz » Wed Jun 21, 2006 10:05 pm

[img]/smile.gif[/img] At last my Calibra is alife. Fitted another cranksensor which was Vauxhall this time(£47 thanks to callyben).
In total the new bits fitted were Cam sensor, Cambelt kit, 3 cranksensors and new wiring from cranksensor plug to ecu.

Just need to get it through the MOT.

Thanks to everyone on here for their input it was greatly appreciated:)
cornishtaz
 

by callyben » Thu Jun 22, 2006 12:46 am

your welcome.


i think im gonna have to set up an account at my local dealer as i seem to be in there quite often. (3 times this week)
callyben
 

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