Spongey issue...

[sam_p2000]

When i have to brake particularly hard and particularly when the brakes are hot the pedal becomes very spongey. Does anyone know the best way to bleed the brakes on a 1995 cally 2.0 16v and i am wondering if maybe changing the brake fluid would help as well. Any tips or comments would be great as i have only tried to bleed brakes once on my mk3 astra and it proved a problem on that as the master cylinder seals were gone.

Cheers guys

[Toddy]

Are you sure it's the fluid? What sort of pads and disc's have you?


If your bleeding the system I would reccomend fitting braided hoses as well.

[Rusty_CallyT]

probably old fluid if its only when they are hot, changing it will help as it absorbs water over time

[sam_p2000]

ok geat, dont suppose you know the best bleeding/ change method to use so i dont bugger it up again!? im running standard discs and pads all round but they are in fairly good condition with only the rear pads a bit low

[Toddy]

Try this mate (you need somebody to help you):

1. Obtain a clean jar and a length of plastic tubing that will fit the bleed screws tightly.
2. Remove the dust cap and clean around the bleed screw on the relevant brake caliper and then attach the plastic tube to the screw.
3. Check the fluid reservoir is topped up, and then destroy the vaccum in the brake servo by giving the several applications to the brake pedal.
4. Stick the other end of the plastic tube into the jar which should contain two or three inches of hydraulic fluid.
5. Open the bleed screw half a turn and have your mate depress the brake pedal slowly to the floor. With the brake pedal still depressed tighten the bleed screw and get your mate to quickly release the pedal, repeat the procedure.
6. Obsevre the submerged end of teh plastic tube in the jar and when the bubbles stop appearing tighten the bleed screw when the pedal is being held fully down.
7. Top-up the fluid reservoir (it must be topped up throughout the bleeding operation).
8. If you're doing the whole system then carry out the procedure on the other front brake and then the two back ones.
9. On completion of the bleeding top-up the fluid in the reservoir and check the brake pedal action which should be firm and free from any sponginess which ould indicate air is still in the system.

Remember to do the front ones first and then the back ones.

Might just be easier if you get a garage to do it if your not sure what your doing. Shouldn't cost you much.

[johnny_adidas]

thought ur supposed to start at furthest from the driver and then work to closest. dont tink it makes much diff anyway, more to do with following a routine as far as i know. but by following that way ur more than likely working to furthest from mastre servo to closest.
and just because they are bled wont mean that they will be very firm. they should however not be any worse.

[Toddy]

Got it from my Haynes, says to start at the front and then do the back.

If there is air trapped in his brake system and he bleeds it correctly it should firm up his braking a bit.

If your not happy with them then go for a full overhaul, uprated disc's pads, braided hoses and brake fluid:icon_nod:

[johnny_adidas]

<!--QuoteBegin-Toddy+--><div class='quotetop'>(Toddy)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteEBegin-->....full overhaul, uprated disc's pads, braided hoses and brake fluid:icon_nod:<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->

currently doing this. a month on and ive only just got my new strut. old one was all cracked at the top mount and bearing was gone also. it was so bad the old hub had worn away completely so dat had to be replaced also. least im learning more and more as i go.