fault codes getting on my t*t's
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fault codes getting on my t*t's
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->Hi guys<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro--> <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->I posted a thread on fault codes a little while ago. I read the ECU log with the paperclip trick, it returned a cam sensor fault and a crank fault. I replaced the can sensor and all was ok for a day. <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro--> <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->The ECU still read the faults though. Despite following the various theories on how to clear the ECU of fault codes. The only proven way is to get a VX dealer to clear them for you. No amount of disconnecting the battery or turning the ignition on and off will help i'm afraid.<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro--> <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->However this said, i'm getting some very strange behaviour from the car at the moment. Upon picking it up from Seward Christchurch, i was very pleased with the ECU light not glaring back at me from the dash, however this didn't last long. Approximately five minutes. So i got home and performed the paperclip trick. It returned the fault 16 and 19 (1994 'M' Ecotec) these being knock sensor and crank sensor. <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro--> <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->I thought i might get a new crank sensor and see if this solved the problem (does anyone know the part number????) <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro--> <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->However the fun doesn't sop there. I got in it the next morning and no ECU light on the dash. This after the VX dealer had assured me that once a fault has been reported to the ECU, regardless of whether its still present or not, the ECU will show this on the dash.<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro--> <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->so every day the ECU lights comes on, the car runs like s*&t for (4500rpm, miss fires etc and sometimes cuts out) a while until i leave it for a couple of hours, then its fine again i.e no ECU light, until i get in it again and drive a couple of miles down the road and so on ............<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro--> <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->I must say that although this behaviour is regular it is not constant, eg i can sometime drive a couple of miles without incident. This led me to believe it may be wiring but i can chuck it around roundabouts etc and it won't light up, then i'll be driving in a straight line and it will light up!!!!<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro--> <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->Can somebody tell me what is happening, its driving me nuts. <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->It it was the crank sensor wouldn't it be constant rather than intermittent?<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro--> <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->I posted a thread on fault codes a little while ago. I read the ECU log with the paperclip trick, it returned a cam sensor fault and a crank fault. I replaced the can sensor and all was ok for a day. <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro--> <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->The ECU still read the faults though. Despite following the various theories on how to clear the ECU of fault codes. The only proven way is to get a VX dealer to clear them for you. No amount of disconnecting the battery or turning the ignition on and off will help i'm afraid.<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro--> <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->However this said, i'm getting some very strange behaviour from the car at the moment. Upon picking it up from Seward Christchurch, i was very pleased with the ECU light not glaring back at me from the dash, however this didn't last long. Approximately five minutes. So i got home and performed the paperclip trick. It returned the fault 16 and 19 (1994 'M' Ecotec) these being knock sensor and crank sensor. <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro--> <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->I thought i might get a new crank sensor and see if this solved the problem (does anyone know the part number????) <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro--> <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->However the fun doesn't sop there. I got in it the next morning and no ECU light on the dash. This after the VX dealer had assured me that once a fault has been reported to the ECU, regardless of whether its still present or not, the ECU will show this on the dash.<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro--> <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->so every day the ECU lights comes on, the car runs like s*&t for (4500rpm, miss fires etc and sometimes cuts out) a while until i leave it for a couple of hours, then its fine again i.e no ECU light, until i get in it again and drive a couple of miles down the road and so on ............<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro--> <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->I must say that although this behaviour is regular it is not constant, eg i can sometime drive a couple of miles without incident. This led me to believe it may be wiring but i can chuck it around roundabouts etc and it won't light up, then i'll be driving in a straight line and it will light up!!!!<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro--> <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->Can somebody tell me what is happening, its driving me nuts. <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->It it was the crank sensor wouldn't it be constant rather than intermittent?<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
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swiftcarl
the early ecotecs had problems with the shilding of the wiring as the sensor wires run along side each other
Its where the wires go under the manifold or around about that area..need to srtip the loom and wrap some sort of shilding around the cam sensor and crank sensor.
kenny had this problem and that was what he found
Its where the wires go under the manifold or around about that area..need to srtip the loom and wrap some sort of shilding around the cam sensor and crank sensor.
kenny had this problem and that was what he found
this is exactly what is happening with mine now after a rebuild 
<!--QuoteBegin-Fraz+--><div class='quotetop'>(Fraz)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteEBegin-->the early ecotecs had problems with the shilding of the wiring as the sensor wires run along side each other
Its where the wires go under the manifold or around about that area..need to srtip the loom and wrap some sort of shilding around the cam sensor and crank sensor.
kenny had this problem and that was what he found<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->
I found that the rubber disintegrated on one of my cables, so i done a quick repair job and shoved brown selotape around it, took much longer for the ECU light to come on, it seems like its something to do with the heat...Im gonna do a better job insulating it tommorow, and see what happens
a few google quotes:
<!--quoteo--><div class='quotetop'></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->Decided to change the crankshaft sensor which did the trick. The wiring insulation on the old sensor had gone hard and broken off just at the sensor. No way of seeing this until the old sensor was out.<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->
<!--quoteo--><div class='quotetop'></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->After the last stalling problem, I took out the throttle body to be re-clean and while tinkering under the hood, I found that the cam sensor wire from the ECU side (under the intake pipe) was touching one of the coolant pipes, and the wires' insulators were brittle. Moved the wire further away from the pipes, reinsulate the wires and voila, it's been a week and no stalling. Even tested it by purposely idling & revving the engine to get the temperature up, after 30 mins - no stalling.<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->

<!--QuoteBegin-Fraz+--><div class='quotetop'>(Fraz)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteEBegin-->the early ecotecs had problems with the shilding of the wiring as the sensor wires run along side each other
Its where the wires go under the manifold or around about that area..need to srtip the loom and wrap some sort of shilding around the cam sensor and crank sensor.
kenny had this problem and that was what he found<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->
I found that the rubber disintegrated on one of my cables, so i done a quick repair job and shoved brown selotape around it, took much longer for the ECU light to come on, it seems like its something to do with the heat...Im gonna do a better job insulating it tommorow, and see what happens
a few google quotes:
<!--quoteo--><div class='quotetop'></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->Decided to change the crankshaft sensor which did the trick. The wiring insulation on the old sensor had gone hard and broken off just at the sensor. No way of seeing this until the old sensor was out.<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->
<!--quoteo--><div class='quotetop'></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->After the last stalling problem, I took out the throttle body to be re-clean and while tinkering under the hood, I found that the cam sensor wire from the ECU side (under the intake pipe) was touching one of the coolant pipes, and the wires' insulators were brittle. Moved the wire further away from the pipes, reinsulate the wires and voila, it's been a week and no stalling. Even tested it by purposely idling & revving the engine to get the temperature up, after 30 mins - no stalling.<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->
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a_c
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