V6 electrics
V6 electrics
Can anyone in the know tell me what else in the V6 would give similar symptoms to a dodgy coil pack. Its the exact same symptoms that I had when it was the coil pack but I've just replaced that for a brand new one and there is no change.
Fraz suggested the ignition amplifier which I'd be happy to try however its a conversion and I don't remember even fitting one of these....especially where Fraz said it is supposed to be. Not only that but other people have said it won't have a separate amp as its DIS and has an amp internally on the coil pack.
I'm lost for answers now and desperate to make it to Trax tommorrow.
Please help and thanks in advance.
Fraz suggested the ignition amplifier which I'd be happy to try however its a conversion and I don't remember even fitting one of these....especially where Fraz said it is supposed to be. Not only that but other people have said it won't have a separate amp as its DIS and has an amp internally on the coil pack.
I'm lost for answers now and desperate to make it to Trax tommorrow.
Please help and thanks in advance.
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Last time-before the coil pack gave up completely, and now, most of the time it drives along normally with plenty of acceleration e.t.c but every now and then with no warning or sound change, the engine suddenly drops off for a split second and then picks up again. Problem is, it can do it wether I'm cruising or accelerating and if it does it while I'm accelerating, the force of it throws the engine so much you can hear it bang about under the bonnet and I'm worried incase I shear an engine mount.
Best way I can describe it is to imagine you turned the ignition off and then quickly back on again without lifting off the throttle. I've now changed the coil pack which made no difference unlike before and I'm about to change the plugs but wondered if it could be something like the fuel relay??? I'm guessing it has to be something generic to all cylinders though rather than just one as the cut out time is too long for just one which takes out the idea of plugs or leads. I'm just changing the plugs anyway as they are due to be done.
Best way I can describe it is to imagine you turned the ignition off and then quickly back on again without lifting off the throttle. I've now changed the coil pack which made no difference unlike before and I'm about to change the plugs but wondered if it could be something like the fuel relay??? I'm guessing it has to be something generic to all cylinders though rather than just one as the cut out time is too long for just one which takes out the idea of plugs or leads. I'm just changing the plugs anyway as they are due to be done.
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In addition to what was said above about the ignition amp, I have since spoke to Tim2001 who has confirmed there is definately a separate amp as he has replaced it. Only thing is, when he replaced his, the fault was there constantly...not intermittantly like mine:frown:
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Yeah the whole car quickly slows then speeds up again with the force of the engine trying to stop.
I've not changed the leads since I've had the engine in which is about a year, maybe just over but the previous owner said he changed them shortly before we took the engine out.
I've not changed the leads since I've had the engine in which is about a year, maybe just over but the previous owner said he changed them shortly before we took the engine out.
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Already thought of the imoboliser and temporarily bypassed that with no joy so rearmed it again.
By FPR, I'm guessing you mean fuel pump relay? If so then yeah, that'll be the next step. Does that show a fault code at all? Only ask as I'm getting no fault codes.
By FPR, I'm guessing you mean fuel pump relay? If so then yeah, that'll be the next step. Does that show a fault code at all? Only ask as I'm getting no fault codes.
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Could be the crank sensor playing silly buggers. That would affect all cylinders. When I got the 3.0 running it was fine just cruising and upto 3k rpm. But under hard accleration and over 4.5k rpm it would miss, judder and generally ***** about. Changed crank sensor and everything was (still is) peachy.....
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Quick idea:
Fire up the engine, unplug the crank sensor (engine should still run I think but EML will come on. Trouble code 31 engine rpm signal) Go for 'gentle' drive around the block to see if it runs better.
ECU should substitute in a value for the disconnected sensor and trigger the 'limp' mode
Fire up the engine, unplug the crank sensor (engine should still run I think but EML will come on. Trouble code 31 engine rpm signal) Go for 'gentle' drive around the block to see if it runs better.
ECU should substitute in a value for the disconnected sensor and trigger the 'limp' mode
I used to own this Calibra...
I now own this one.
Xbox live gamertag IcedSage
PS3 PS4 network gamertag Calibra-Madman
I now own this one.
Xbox live gamertag IcedSage
PS3 PS4 network gamertag Calibra-Madman
<!--QuoteBegin-phil69+--><div class='quotetop'>(phil69)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteEBegin-->Fraz suggested the ignition amplifier which I'd be happy to try however its a conversion and I don't remember even fitting one of these....especially where Fraz said it is supposed to be. Not only that but other people have said it won't have a separate amp as its DIS and has an amp internally on the coil pack..<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->
oh thee of little faith ..would I lie to you ( I feel a song coming on)
Though from your problems I doubt its the amp, more a sensor breaking down ..crank sensor is one I would go for ...could just be the wires
oh thee of little faith ..would I lie to you ( I feel a song coming on)
Though from your problems I doubt its the amp, more a sensor breaking down ..crank sensor is one I would go for ...could just be the wires
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