Rio Verde Green V6

[BMJ]

What are you going to do to the air box?

Modify the inlet taking it out to 90mm, pictures will follow shortly.

[MadOnVaux!]

I suppose Nankangs may be OK in OZ if they are hot all the time, so the rubber is soft?

I just found them poor in the dry and dangerous in the wet....I didnt have NS2's admittedly.

[BMJ]

I suppose Nankangs may be OK in OZ if they are hot all the time, so the rubber is soft?

I just found them poor in the dry and dangerous in the wet....I didnt have NS2's admittedly.

I appreciate your thoughts MadOnVaux.

[BMJ]

Hi Guys,
Some pictures below of the airbox mod and fitted lower intake manifold from X25XE.
The hose I used is called Memorex, 76mm internal diameter, and it retains it shape when formed and stretched.
I used 90mm PVC piping which I modified to fit the airbox.

Enjoy

[Mark1]

Never seen anybody do it that way round, most come out the front.

[BMJ]

Hi Guys,
It fits fine with the modifications I did.

Instead of trying to have the intake come out of the toe eye cover I just decided to stick to the orginal route, and keeping the intake high and hopefully dry.

[BMJ]

Hi Guys,
Some pictures below of the roose motorsport intake piping.

Enjoy

[Mark1]

Odd you had to cut some off, mine fitted with no problems.

[EddeyDancer]

I wonder if the 'Roose Hoses' have any benefits, as the 'Original Induction Hoses' certainly do look better...

[BMJ]

Odd you had to cut some off, mine fitted with no problems.

Hi Mark,
I tried fitting them initally without modification, but the hoses & airflow meter just would not fit between the throttle body and upper part of the airbox, so I had no choice but to modify it. Well now it fits properly, so all is good in my world.

[BMJ]

I wonder if the 'Roose Hoses' have any benefits, as the 'Original Induction Hoses' certainly do look better...

I used to work in the duct industry, some simple rules I noted, about better airflow:
The shorter the ducting the better.
The smoother the inside of the ducting the better.
The fewer the sharp bends the better.

[BMJ]

Hi Guys,
I thought I'd provide an update, I finally finished the front suspension replacing the shock absorber support, support bearing, bellows, stop buffer, tie rod end and ball joint for each side.

Just a note, the castellated nut is an absolute pain in the *** to get off and refit as you need a ton of leverage and force to undo and redo the nut, that why I showed the picture so you could actually see how I set up to undo the nut in case you wish to try it. I'd follow the haynes manual it is a straight forward job to do otherwise.

Pictures follow.

Enjoy.

[BMJ]

Below are some photos of the test fitting of my new tyre and wheel combo. I wanted to see how they looked and get an idea about how much rolling & pumping of the guards I'll need to do. As a note, the tyres are 225/35/18 and the rims ET is 47, and there is plenty of clearance behind the wheel, at least 10mm, and between the wheel and arch, at least 40mm, and that's with eibach springs fitted.

Enjoy.

[Mark1]

Did you get permission to use that style of wheel? If not take them off.

[Fraz]

Just a note, the castellated nut is an absolute pain in the *** to get off and refit as you need a ton of leverage and force to undo and redo the nut, .

Thast becasue you did it wrong ...you undo the nut first while the brakes are still on, that way you can

A. get someone to press the brake while you undo the nut
B. Jam an old screw driver or bar into the cooling vents of the disc so it will then jam aginst the caliper (if the disc has broke the securing screw then simply put 2 wheel bolts in)

done it that way many times and never had any problems