here is one for you all to go over

[Fraz]

have been contacted by the Practical Classics Calibra magazine ...seems they went to .com first and got a car from over there, BUT they have asked us to go over the write up and we will get a panel in the mag


so can everyone go over this and see what they can come up with...fe wthinsg I have noticed is the parts about the doors dropping...never had any problems myself, and the bit about golass sunrrofs ??

so if you can add or amend bits then highlight the wrong bit and enter the correct information, hopefully we will get a good guide then

the text as i got it
OH and they want it done before Jan 7th


Buying: Vauxhall Calibra: (1990-1998)

Pictures by John Colley

Price check: Mint: £2500-5000, Average: £1000-2500, Rough: £300-500

Coupés based on more mundane family hatches or saloons are nothing new, but few have the allure of the Vauxhall Calibra. As this super-stylish sportster heads for the quarter-century mark, it still looks stylish enough to blow its contemporaries into the weeds
It would be easy to think of the Calibra as little more than a Cavalier in a party frock, but Vauxhall used the 4x4 version of its fleet favourite to donate its platform. With a thorough overhaul of the suspension to give a sportier drive, the Calibra could run rings round its more prosaic family-oriented sibling.
However, the Cavalier did donate its engine and transmission along with its brakes and steering – the result of which is cheap and plentiful parts to keep the Calibra going. Throw in practicality on a par with the Cavalier hatch and values that start at all of £750 for something worth having and the Calibra makes a pretty compelling case for itself.

BODYWORK
As a modern classic, the Calibra isn’t nearly as rust-prone as most of its forebears – but that’s not to say it’s immune. Pre-1995 cars can suffer from corrosion in the rear wheelarches and door bottoms; the sills might also be showing signs of tinworm too. Wheelarch corrosion is easily repaired, as panels are available; fixing the doors invariably means welding in a strip of metal as repair sections aren’t available and the corrosion won’t be serious enough to warrant fitting replacement doors.
From 1995 the Calibra’s bodyshell was galvanised, so corrosion is much less likely; any signs of rust suggests the car has been shunted then badly repaired. Open the bonnet and check for any rippling of the inner wings; also make sure the boot floor isn’t showing any signs of having been patched up.
The low nose means stone chips are common on the leading edge of the bonnet, but if caught in time it’s easy enough to get the panel resprayed before corrosion takes a hold. Because the front and rear bumpers are plastic you don’t need to worry about corrosion, but if a previous owner has parked by touch there may be cracks in the finish.
Many Calibras came with a runroof, so make sure its surround isn’t rusty and that its drain holes aren’t blocked; also make sure that its mechanism works OK. More likely to be an issue though is corrosion in the rear spring mounts; if rotten enough, the spring can go through the chassis. Repairs are often possible, but if things have been left too long, the car will be beyond economical repair.
One final check is for the door alignment; worn hinges are common thanks to the size and weight of the doors (what’s the cure?)

ENGINE
There were three different engines fitted, all with overhead camshafts and a catalytic converter. Until 1994 there was a 2.0-litre engine in 8-valve and 16-valve forms, the latter also coming in Turbo guise from 1992. By late 1994 the 16-valve version of this powerplant had been replaced by a new Ecotec engine; in the meantime (in 1993) a 2.5 V6 had joined the range.
All these engines have a cam belt, tensioners and water pump which should be replaced every four years or 36,000 miles; it’s an easy DIY job for £?? or a specialist will charge £350.

Check the service history and ensure that the oil has been changed every 9000 miles; anything less means wear is likely and in the case of the Turbo the problems could be more serious. Dirty oil is guaranteed to wreck a turbocharger; a caring owner will have used only fully synthetic lubricant.

On the V6, watch out for oil leaks from the rocker covers; the gaskets fail. Fresh gaskets cost £??, and while they’re a bit fiddly to fit (so potentially costly if done by a specialist), you can do it yourself easily enough.
Another V6 potential issue is a failed oil cooler. Thanks to its location in the engine’s V, you can’t see the cooler itself – but if it goes you should be able to see the white emulsion in the header tank that results. Any sings of trouble, budget £??? to put things right.

TRANSMISSION
As standard, all Calibras came with a five-speed manual gearbox, apart from the Turbo which got an extra ratio. There was an auto option for some models too, with either three or four cogs (see Which is which? panel). Power was sent to the front wheels only in most cases, but there were four-wheel drive options for the 2.0-litre 16-valve engine in normally aspirated and Turbo forms. It’s not a permanent four-wheel drive system though; the power is usually fed to the front only, but if slip is detected, the rear wheels are then fed up to ?? per cent of the available torque.
Gearboxes and clutches are tough, but the latter wears out eventually – expect to pay £250 to have a decent replacement fitted. The Calibra 8-valve’s flywheel weighs 8kg; the V6’s tips the scales at 15kg, so it’s worth fitting a lighter item while you’re at it, to make the unit noticeably more free-revving.
If looking at a 4WD edition, press the brake pedal as you start the engine; the 4x4 light should illuminate on the dash. If it doesn’t, budget £1000 for a new transfer box to be fitted, to control the four-wheel drive transmission. If the light doesn’t illuminate at all, just walk away, as the vendor clearly can’t be trusted.

STEERING & SUSPENSION
Calibras with modified suspension aren’t that unusual, and it’s not necessarily a problem. However, not all cars are tweaked properly, with tyre clearance issues usually the result. Most likely is a car with odd camber, guaranteeing uneven tyre wear, but contact with the wheelarches is also a possibility.
Standard dampers can wear out in just 40,000 miles. A replacement pair costs £???, so many owners take the opportunity to fit something sportier – make sure it’s not too sporty.

WHEELS & BRAKES
All Calibras came with anti-lock brakes

TRIM & ELECTRICS
The Calibra’s dash and switchgear are largely carried over from the Cavalier, so they’re durable and easy to use. There are weaknesses though, such as the hazard light switch (cost to fix?) and the speedo cable (cost to fix?)

Until October 1992, when leather became an option, all Calibras featured cloth trim. From 1995 the Turbo 4x4 got heated seats as standard; the base usually works OK, but the wire for the backrest element often breaks, with repairs not that straightforward.

All Calibras came with lots of electrical kit, most of which is inherently reliable.

If you’re looking at a V6, make sure the traction control works. The TC light should illuminate when the ignition is first switched on, then go out. Find some gravel and see if the wheels spin as you accelerate sharply; the revs should be reined in, but if not there’s a problem (what problem?).
Also on the V6 is an alternator fan which can fail. After a decent test drive, it should cut in and keep running after the radiator cooling fan has done its job. If you can’t hear it, budget £250 for a replacement alternator and fan; it’s easy enough to fit both.

CONCLUSION
While most car designs from the 1990s have dated – in some cases pretty badly – the Calibra still looks as stylish as the day it was unveiled. Those smartly chiselled looks still look fabulous from every angle but you don’t have to compromise because there’s ample practicality too, thanks to the hatchback layout.
As with most of its contemporaries, the Calibra has been going through a banger phase for several years, with many examples succumbing to neglect. As a result you’ve got to buy on condition rather than spec; the Turbo is seriously quick while the V6 is more of a long-legged cruiser, but even the entry-level models provide reasonable performance. We’d recommend you aim for at least a normally aspirated 16-valve model, but make sure you really are getting a 16-valver; it’s not unusual for an 8-valve Calibra to be badged as something it’s not.

WHICH IS WHICH?
6/90: The Calibra arrives with 2.0-litre engine in 8 and 16-valve forms.
9/90: There are now three-speed auto (8v) and 4WD (16v) options.
9/91: The Tickford special has 8v or 16v engines, leather/alcantara trim; 25 made.
4/92: The 16v Turbo 4x4 has close-ratio gearbox, heated seats.
10/92: SE special has blue paint, 8v engine.
2/93: There’s now a driver’s airbag as standard.
8/93: Faster steering rack is now fitted, 2.5 V6 introduced.
10/93: SE2 has yellow paint, 16v engine, glass sunroof.
2/94: The 16v Calibra gets a new 134bhp Ecotec engine with 4-speed auto option.
5/94: SE3 has glass sunroof, red paint, 8v engine.
10/94: Facelift brings new nose, white dials, fresh alloys.
12/94: SE4 gets blue paint, 8v engine.
5/95: The DTM special has white paint, 16v or V6 engine, BBS alloys, rear spoiler, FWD or 4WD. 200 made.
12/95: SE5 features black paint, 8v engine, sports suspension
5/96: SE6 gets blue paint, 8v engine, leather trim.
9/96: Turbo 4x4 LE has sports suspension, rear spoiler, 16” alloys, air-con; 51 made.
10/96: SE7 has air-con, pearlescent grey paint, 16v engine.
4/97: SE8 features air-con, 16v engine, rear spoiler, blue paint.
8/97: SE9 has V6 engine, leather trim, air-con.

LIVING WITH ONE
There are two sculpted rear seats, so carrying five isn’t an option, but a hatchback configuration means excellent practicality. Parts availability is good, most maintenance can be done on a DIY basis and running costs are low.

WHAT SHOULD I PAY?
Values are dictated by condition more than spec. Outside the club scene, most Calibras change hands for under £1000. Typically high-mileage, these cars probably aren’t cherished; for something nice expect to pay £1500+. Really special cars can still command £5000 from dealers, but most good Calibras fetch £1500-3000

KEY SPECIALISTS
• Text here

SCARCE PARTS
• text here

COPING WITH UNLEADED
All Calibras feature a catalytic converter, so unleaded fuel is essential.

IDENTIFYING MARKS
Until June 1994 the VIN was stamped into the bodyshell near the driver’s seat and there’s a plate riveted to to the slam panel. On later cars the VIN appears in the nearside bottom corner of the windscreen, mounted in the corner of the dash; this number was also etched into the front and rear screens.

OWNERS’ CLUBS
• Club Calibra, http://www.clubcalibra.com
• Club Calibra, http://www.clubcalibra.net

SPECIFICATIONS
2.0 8-valve (1990-1998)
Engine 1998cc/4-cyl/OHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 115@5200
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 125@2600
Top speed 127mph
0-60mph 10.0sec
Consumption ??mpg
Gearbox 5-sp man/3-sp auto
Length 177in (4.49m)
Width 66.5in (1.69m)
Weight 2679lb (1215kg)

2.0 16-valve (1990-1994)
Engine 1998cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 148@6000
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 146@4600
Top speed 139mph
0-60mph 7.5sec
Consumption ??mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
Length 177in (4.49m)
Width 66.5in (1.69m)
Weight 2756lb (1250kg)

2.0 16-valve Ecotec (1994-1997)
Engine 1998cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 136@???
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 139@???
Top speed ???mph
0-60mph ???sec
Consumption ??mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
Length 177in (4.49m)
Width 66.5in (1.69m)
Weight ????lb (????kg)

2.0 Turbo 4x4 (1992-1998)
Engine 1998cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 201@5600
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 209@2400
Top speed 152mph
0-60mph 6.4sec
Consumption ??mpg
Gearbox 6-speed manual
Length 177in (4.49m)
Width 66.5in (1.69m)
Weight 3031lb (1375kg)

2.5 24-valve V6 (1994-1998)
Engine 2498cc/6-cyl/OHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 168@6000
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 168@4200
Top speed 147mph
0-60mph 7.3sec
Consumption ??mpg
Gearbox 5-sp man/4-sp auto
Length 177in (4.49m)
Width 66.5in (1.69m)
Weight 2921lb (1325kg)

THANKS TO
Text here

The owner
Text here

The specialist
Text here

Richard Dredge
January 2013

[Mark1]

Straps for doors? What's that all about?

[v6 steve]

Straps for doors? What's that all about?

i would say thats about the clicking noise they make when they are on there way out, thought it would have said about the rust at the seem on the sill and the arm bolts in the foot wells, iv never had a door drop, we could wright pages and pages about them but its good to see the calibra getting more coverage in a mag

[Fraz]

Could do with some more from people, the guy is calling on Friday

I am sure some. Of the turbo stats are wrong and what about the bit regarding the split of power when on 4x4, is that not a figure that would depend on how much grip there is?

Sent from my HTC Wildfire S A510e using Tapatalk 2

[v6 steve]

The Specialist

[Fraz]

My mum always told me I was special