cal16v's WIP
Re: cal16v's WIP
I dismantled only enough to get the job done. Repainted the frame/surround while everything was out and cleaned the tracks and fittings etc.
Re: cal16v's WIP
Refitted electric windows today and came across an interesting situation.
All arms and tracks fitted to both sides in the same way and while the passenger side works 100% the driver's side glass overshoots by 15-16mm... Also noticed that the glass is not square to the pillar and leans toward the rear at the top.
Then I noticed another hole that has been drilled close to the rear arm track and about 15mm above the rivet I used in the pressed section of the door. Raising the track to this higher fixing point should (in my mind at least) correct the glass tilt and lower the height of the glass along the qtr glass edge. Fingers crossed...
Anyone else seen this?
All arms and tracks fitted to both sides in the same way and while the passenger side works 100% the driver's side glass overshoots by 15-16mm... Also noticed that the glass is not square to the pillar and leans toward the rear at the top.
Then I noticed another hole that has been drilled close to the rear arm track and about 15mm above the rivet I used in the pressed section of the door. Raising the track to this higher fixing point should (in my mind at least) correct the glass tilt and lower the height of the glass along the qtr glass edge. Fingers crossed...
Anyone else seen this?
Re: cal16v's WIP
Pics will tell the story better. Function wise everything is smooth and ok... just the slant/height issue. see below
Passenger side setup (note rivet locations)
Passenger side glass/pillar spacing
Drivers side (rear slide/runner mounting) Notice the extra hole?
Drivers side glass spacing
& height overrun
Passenger side setup (note rivet locations)
Passenger side glass/pillar spacing
Drivers side (rear slide/runner mounting) Notice the extra hole?
Drivers side glass spacing
& height overrun
Re: cal16v's WIP
The 2 rivets hold a channel for 1 of the mechanism arms to slide along. I'm not referring to the rear runner with 2 bolts...
It seems strange to me that what should be identical setups could operate so differently. The only thing I can think of is perhaps an arm in the drivers door is bent but then you wouldn't expect the window to move up & down so freely. It's as if the motor just runs slightly too long, but because of the slant I expect it has more to do with the overall alignment. But from what I can see there is no vertical adjustment, only 2 bolts to secure the main glass and guides/channels and rivets holding everything in the right place.
It seems strange to me that what should be identical setups could operate so differently. The only thing I can think of is perhaps an arm in the drivers door is bent but then you wouldn't expect the window to move up & down so freely. It's as if the motor just runs slightly too long, but because of the slant I expect it has more to do with the overall alignment. But from what I can see there is no vertical adjustment, only 2 bolts to secure the main glass and guides/channels and rivets holding everything in the right place.
Re: cal16v's WIP
I have exactly the same problem with my drivers side window, the motor packed in so had it to the garage for them to fit a replacement motor and when I got it back that's how mine looks. I need to take the door card off and try and sort it.
1996 ceramic blue 16v ecotec
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Re: cal16v's WIP
Cheers wuffy,
Good luck and let us know how you get on.
EDIT
Found the solution to the problem shown above.
The bolt shown in the picture acts as a stopper preventing the glass from overshooting the correct position at the top. The bolt goes through a lugged spacer and nylon washer which sits in behind the regulator frame. Fine adjustment of the glass position is possible by sliding the bolt upward for lower glass level or downward for a higher closed glass height. The rest is simple alignment using the slack in the bolts and correct runner setup. Hope this helps someone with the same issue.
Good luck and let us know how you get on.
EDIT
Found the solution to the problem shown above.
The bolt shown in the picture acts as a stopper preventing the glass from overshooting the correct position at the top. The bolt goes through a lugged spacer and nylon washer which sits in behind the regulator frame. Fine adjustment of the glass position is possible by sliding the bolt upward for lower glass level or downward for a higher closed glass height. The rest is simple alignment using the slack in the bolts and correct runner setup. Hope this helps someone with the same issue.
Re: cal16v's WIP
Last door card and finished
Re: cal16v's WIP
Eibach Pro springs & Bilstein B4's ordered from UK today. Even with the 100 quid del charge these are still cheaper than what I would be paying locally... thanks for the heads up
Re: cal16v's WIP
Starting to fit new carpet. Only temp stitching in place whilst I wait for the heavy duty thread to arrive.
Re: cal16v's WIP
Weather has been high 30's here for nearly a week with temps in the garage around the mid 40's as a result and making progress slow. But an update nevertheless...
Re: cal16v's WIP
What did you use to wrap the door cards they look really good
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'Once Driven Forever Smitten'
Silver 1992 C2OXE CALLY (Weekend use only)
Se2 1994 C20XE CALLY (On Going Project)
Red 1991 SRI C20XE CAVVY (Been Stored Since 2008)
Red 2016 Insignia VX Line (Daily Driver)
Silver 1992 C2OXE CALLY (Weekend use only)
Se2 1994 C20XE CALLY (On Going Project)
Red 1991 SRI C20XE CAVVY (Been Stored Since 2008)
Red 2016 Insignia VX Line (Daily Driver)
Re: cal16v's WIP
BigDaz wrote:What did you use to wrap the door cards they look really good
Hi BigDaz,
I used plain old vinyl off the roll and this contact. The contact is the most important item IMO but it's still not an easy task.
Re: cal16v's WIP
Cheers bud i have a couple of old door cards lying around i might give that ago
'Once Driven Forever Smitten'
Silver 1992 C2OXE CALLY (Weekend use only)
Se2 1994 C20XE CALLY (On Going Project)
Red 1991 SRI C20XE CAVVY (Been Stored Since 2008)
Red 2016 Insignia VX Line (Daily Driver)
Silver 1992 C2OXE CALLY (Weekend use only)
Se2 1994 C20XE CALLY (On Going Project)
Red 1991 SRI C20XE CAVVY (Been Stored Since 2008)
Red 2016 Insignia VX Line (Daily Driver)
Re: cal16v's WIP
Further update...
I started a whole lot of jobs due to waiting on parts / funds etc. I have cut out a new carpet for the boot which is currently being over locked and recoloured the boot side panels. Made an infill panel for the wheel well out of multi-purpose foam board but need to skin the top with a thin layer of ply for durability. Painted the rest of the interior trim black including the dash but still waiting on dash bulbs to arrive so not all put back together yet. Have just started tailor-fitting the dash panel I made from MDF a while back and will spend some time getting it to fit this dash properly before the new windscreen goes in..
I really want to tidy up all this before tackling the next stage which is the rear bushes and painting underneath. When I do I'll post up some more pics.
I started a whole lot of jobs due to waiting on parts / funds etc. I have cut out a new carpet for the boot which is currently being over locked and recoloured the boot side panels. Made an infill panel for the wheel well out of multi-purpose foam board but need to skin the top with a thin layer of ply for durability. Painted the rest of the interior trim black including the dash but still waiting on dash bulbs to arrive so not all put back together yet. Have just started tailor-fitting the dash panel I made from MDF a while back and will spend some time getting it to fit this dash properly before the new windscreen goes in..
I really want to tidy up all this before tackling the next stage which is the rear bushes and painting underneath. When I do I'll post up some more pics.
Re: cal16v's WIP
Parts delivery
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