Replacing The Starter Motor On V6
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Replacing The Starter Motor On V6
Hi Guys,
I changed the starter motor on the weekend and I thought I would give everyone whom has a V6 the heads up about some querks of the job.
Here we go:
1. The TIS and Haynes manual say you have to remove the CV shaft. But you do not need to in fact it does not help at all to remove it.
What you need to do is remove the rear exhaust manifold and down pipe that leads from the manifold. With the exhaust manifold out of the way you can easily remove the starter motor from between the engine block and CV shaft.
2. Between the starter motor and alternator their is a cable leading to a sensor that looks like a large button. That's your rear knock sensor. It's good opportunity to take it off and clean the mating surfaces on the engine block and sensor so that it works properly. I used a wire brush on a dremel to give it a nice shine as it looked like there was some build up impregnated on the mating surfaces.
3. The exhaust manifold has seven nuts there is one tucked away behind the auxilary drive belt tensioner, the reason I mention this because I made the mistake of trying to take the exhaust manifold off with only six nuts removed took me an hour to figure out there was another nut still secure in place.
4. There is a thick plastic cable tray running between the engine block and stater motor this has to be moved to access the top bolt on the starter motor.
To be able move the tray out of the way you need to undo the two cables attached to the back end of the starter motor.
And then remove the auxilary air intake, behind this is a bolt that holds the said cable tray in place you need to remove this bolt. Now you will have to be forceful in removing the cable tray it is wedge really well between the block and starter motor.
5. Refitting is the reverse, pretty straightforward from hear.
Haynes and TIS say you need a new exhaust manifold gasket. I reused the exhaust manifold gasket. I gave it a good clean with a wire brush and acetone. Remember apply exhaust gasket glue to the gasket on both sides and the nuts a are tightened to 22nm.
OK I think that's about it it took me about 20 hours. I know it is a long time but I am slow and I like to take my time cleaning everything and checking my work.
I will call back in a few days if there are any questions.
Regards Boris
I changed the starter motor on the weekend and I thought I would give everyone whom has a V6 the heads up about some querks of the job.
Here we go:
1. The TIS and Haynes manual say you have to remove the CV shaft. But you do not need to in fact it does not help at all to remove it.
What you need to do is remove the rear exhaust manifold and down pipe that leads from the manifold. With the exhaust manifold out of the way you can easily remove the starter motor from between the engine block and CV shaft.
2. Between the starter motor and alternator their is a cable leading to a sensor that looks like a large button. That's your rear knock sensor. It's good opportunity to take it off and clean the mating surfaces on the engine block and sensor so that it works properly. I used a wire brush on a dremel to give it a nice shine as it looked like there was some build up impregnated on the mating surfaces.
3. The exhaust manifold has seven nuts there is one tucked away behind the auxilary drive belt tensioner, the reason I mention this because I made the mistake of trying to take the exhaust manifold off with only six nuts removed took me an hour to figure out there was another nut still secure in place.
4. There is a thick plastic cable tray running between the engine block and stater motor this has to be moved to access the top bolt on the starter motor.
To be able move the tray out of the way you need to undo the two cables attached to the back end of the starter motor.
And then remove the auxilary air intake, behind this is a bolt that holds the said cable tray in place you need to remove this bolt. Now you will have to be forceful in removing the cable tray it is wedge really well between the block and starter motor.
5. Refitting is the reverse, pretty straightforward from hear.
Haynes and TIS say you need a new exhaust manifold gasket. I reused the exhaust manifold gasket. I gave it a good clean with a wire brush and acetone. Remember apply exhaust gasket glue to the gasket on both sides and the nuts a are tightened to 22nm.
OK I think that's about it it took me about 20 hours. I know it is a long time but I am slow and I like to take my time cleaning everything and checking my work.
I will call back in a few days if there are any questions.
Regards Boris
- ClubCalibra.net
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Re: Replacing The Starter Motor On V6
nice tip's there mate thanks for sharing 20hrs is a long time i would say it would be a 1/2 day job for most (not getting at you just give others a time scale for the job) keep the how too/s coming
steve
Chairman
The Drain
LE 4x4 turbo
SE2 4x4 turbo RIP
Chairman
The Drain
LE 4x4 turbo
SE2 4x4 turbo RIP
Re: Replacing The Starter Motor On V6
Hi Steve,
Your welcome. I would agree it would probable take most half the time to do the job.
Regards Boris
Your welcome. I would agree it would probable take most half the time to do the job.
Regards Boris
- ClubCalibra.net
- Posts: 148
- Joined: Fri Oct 19, 2007 12:39 am
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